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Yin Fo Fui Kun - Hakka cemetery

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The same day we visited Istana Woodneuk ( http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2014/08/istana-woodneuk.html  ) we had all met at Commonwealth MRT station and took a quick 5 minute walk to the threatened Yin Foh Kuan cemetery belonging to the Yin Fo Fui Kun clan. Nestled between towering HDBs, a petrol station and a small industrial area peacefully lies this Hakka cemetery, you will have probably spied it as you passed by above on the train.

We entered and turned left and first made our way into the red roofed Wu Fu Tang Ancestral Temple built in the traditional Chinese style and fronted by a semicircular fish pond. We were visiting during the 7th month festival (hungry ghosts) and the frontage of this temple was masked by a red and white canopy so photos don't really do it justice. 


It was built in 1887 and is also home to ancestral tablets, some of the older urns and some newer. To the right sits the larger and much newer blue roofed Shuang Long Shan memorial hall, home to the columbarium and built in the 1970s.

Ancestral tablets. The one covered in a red cloth is not yet deceased.

The older urns
Behind these 2 buildings sit the graves.....


Ying Fo Fui Kun is also known as Shan Wu Shu and means "Double Dragon Hill' being built on a hill, there was once also another cemetery nearby called Yue Shan Ting which was built on a much larger 143 acre site. Yin Fo Fui Kun originally cover 100 acres but is now down to under 5.

History

The Yin Fo Fui Kan clan are a Hakka clan from Jia Yung, Canton, China. In 1887 the clan bought the land and called it Shuang Long Shan/Shan Wu Shu (Double dragon Hill) In China in those days cremations weren't popular and it was considered good feng shui to be buried on a hill. The Yin Fo Fui clan association set up there association in 1822 and is the oldest Hakka association in Singapore. It was founded by Lui Runde and their temple was once in Telok Ayer St and now home to the clan association 

Over time land became scarce in Singapore and cremations became more the norm and were encouraged. In 1969 the Singapore State purchased the land for residential use but, as this is the only Hakka cemetery in Singapore they agreed to the clans request to keep 5 acres and allowed almost 3,000 graves to be exhumed, cremated and re interred in urns and reburied. This explains the close lines and the fact that all the graves are identical as they were placed here at the same time. 


The graves are in 65 rows, all equally apart, identically covered in plain mosaics with only a couple having the photo of the deceased. In front of these rows sit 12 larger more ornate graves, these are 12 actual graves and not cremations. Clearly people of some significance. It's strange to see Chinese grave markers like this as I have become accustomed to seeing the more ornately decorated and designed graves such as you can view at Bukit Brown Cemetery. The headstones you can see with a stone atop denotes that they are still cared for and someone has visited them recently.

A stone on top denotes it has been visited recently

Whilst looking around the cemetery we saw an "uncle" waving to us a number of times, shirtless and shoeless, we waved back. 

Our friendly and passionate uncle caretaker :)
We returned to the temple and found "uncle" and learnt he was the caretaker of the site and although he didn't speak any English he wanted to tell us about this place. So through sign language and scribbles on a paper plate he tried to tell us his and the sites story. His name I have found out from the internet is Ah Koon. From what we could understand his parents "mama, papa" are not here as he couldn't afford to pay the prices but I'm not sure if we fully understood him correctly, although he tried to explain this to us a number of times. His father had been the caretaker before him for 20 years and he himself had been here since 1982 and he was now 58 years old. We believed he explained that many of the graves no longer have urns there as there is a high price to keep them there and when this happens they are removed and placed in the ancestral hall - or at least that's what we think he was explaining. Certainly he was saying if they couldn't pay for the urn and up keep of the urns the remains are finally disposed of. He even showed us the insides of one of the urns, we were slightly taken aback! He was a friendly passionate uncle who was so keen to "talk" to us and apologised for not speaking English - well we don't speak any Chinese!

Inside an urn - I think I'm honored to have witnessed this
Afterwards he took outside and showed us, in the retaining wall behind the ancestral temple, 5 stones which represent the 5 elements. Earth, Wood, Metal (although the sign said gold) Water and Fire. These are to keep the evil spirits away.

The 5 magic stones, representing the 5 elements. 
We passed through the blue roofed memorial hall, home to the columbarium. To be honest apart from its architectural Chinese design it was nothing out of the unusual for such a building.

Shuang Long Shan memorial home. The newer building and home to the columbarium.

There have been news stories abounding for years that the site will be sold and, just this year, its been reported in the news that the clan are thinking of exhuming the remains from under the stones and placing in the columbarium, and that the land will then be used for a community centre for the clan members and the community. The caretaker though told us that nothing will happen until 2065 - I wonder how much he knows or if this is indeed true - lets hope so, for you won't see another cemetery like this.

The infamous paper plate where the caretaker tried to explain so much. A later picture of this shows all our birth years - not giving these away!!!!


The largest of the 12 actual graves and the biggest, clearly people of some importance.



The ants were enjoying this recent offering.
One of the very few grave headstones which showed a picture of the deceased.

This cemetery can be found at
9. Commonwealth Lane
Singapore
149551.
Open daily from 08:00-17:00

Pulau Ubin, Tua Pek Kong, Chinese Opera and wildlife!

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I finally managed to reach this island without the gods sending thunder and lightning raining down on me. Myself and friend chose this day to visit as from the 12th - 17th May the islanders were celebrating the birthday of the deity Tua Pek Kong and we knew there would be more to experience than on a normal day. We were expecting there to be queues waiting for the bum boats across, but no we were the only people on the boat apart from one local family and were certainly the only "westerners" on the island for a couple of hours. We arrived about 9am and as we alighted onto the landing jetty we were greeted by flags and lanterns lining the jetty (they obviously knew we were coming!!!!) We turned left and entered into the main "town" square adorned with more flags and lanterns. The Wayang (tradition teochew opera ) stage is a permenant fixture here on the island and is one of the few permanent ones left in Singapore. In the evening during the festivities there are performances of modern getai (song stage) It is built in the traditional kampong style on stilts and with louvred windows just below the roof to allow air through. This stage was fully decorated, as was the temple in the far corner, with offerings already there early in the morning but which would be over flowing with the 5 meats and other offerings come midday.



Tua Pek Kong (Grand Uncle in Hokkien and Teochew)  is a Deity of wealth. He is reportedly the guardian of Pulau Ubin. His birthday is in the 4th month of the Chinese lunar year and always coincides with Vesak Day (Buddhas birthday) this is because the deity chose this date as he wanted to emulate Buddha.

Joss sticks
We wandered around the town square before moving further into the island as we awaited the entrance of Tua Pek Kong at 10am at the Fo Shan Ting Da Bo Gong Temple, his "office". What we were fortunate in doing, unknowingly, was we next visited his temple the Tua Pek Kong Temple which I think am right in saying is 144 years old and known as his "villa". Here as we took a breather suddenly many locals appeared, what we hadn't realized, when we were looking around, was that we were in fact looking at Tua Pek Kong himself and also Hu Ye, The Tiger God. After much preparation Tua Pek Kong was attached extremely securely to a "sedan type" chair with red ribbons. Three musicians played as he was then transported down from his villa to his office in the square accompanied by Hu Ye and other figurines.

Entrance to Tua Pek Kong Temple, his villa
Tua Pek Kong in his villa before the start of  his celebrations
Hu Ye, the Tiger God residing in his cave
Tua Pek Kong being tied to the sedan chairs with red ribbons
Tua Pek Kong on his journey down from his villa to the office. These strong men swing the chair from side to side on the way down the hill. Now we know why the spent so long securing him!
rope/snake that was cracked in front of each deity. Anyone shed any information on this?
We were the only westerners there although there were some others local visitors taking photos. It was a shame we couldn't understand what was being said and therefore couldn't fully appreciate the spectacle. Another onlooker asked my friend why we were there as weren't we christian - why should that stop us being interested and wanting to know about other cultures! One lady kindly have us some joss ticks as we followed the procession down the hill. Once they had arrived there was more singing and cymbals played as the Tia Pek Kong, Hu Ye and the other figures were undressed, cleaned and redressed in new outfits.

cleaning.... 
Tua Pek Kong in his new clothes. Anyone know who his sidekicks are?
Hu Ye the Tiger God after he's been cleaned and given new clothes and offerings.

The 5 meats

There's something about these that remind me of happy gremlins!!
The festival gives islanders and those that had moved to the mainland a chance to keep in touch and get together. Throughout the festival there are lion dances, live modern getai shows in the evening attracting over 1000 people last year. Seances (mediums) who are possessed by the "constable of hell" arrive and pay their respects. In The evenings and on the last day free bumboats are put on to transport people onto the island. Whilst we were there we were fortunate to see the Teochew opera being performed, for me this was the first time. Apart from the two of us noone else was watching this but they are performing for the spirits who were watching. Sadly I couldn't be their for the evening so was unable to experience the modern getai acts. From here we left the islanders to continue their celebrations as we explored the island a little.




Pulau Ubin mean Granite island in Malay. Pulau meaning island and ubin means "squared stone' in Javanese. It was once mined for granite with many abandoned quarries that are now flooded and home, as the rest of the island is, to wildlife many that is now endangered in Singapore. The stone that was quarried was often made into tiles and called "jubin" the name was then shortened to ubin. Ubin is boomerang in shape but the myth on how is was created comes from a story about an elephant, frog and pig that decided to race each other across the water to Juhor. They all failed and were turned to stone, the elephant and pig became Ubin and the frog became frog island (Pulau Sekudu)

There was once just a handful of inhabitants on the island but in the 1880s Malays moved from the Kallang area to Ubin and the population grew from there, In 1952 a school was established with over 400 pupils at its peak, before it was closed in 1985 and demolished in 2000. Many inhabitants left in 2005 at the height of the bird flu outbreak when poultry farmers had to raise their poultry on the mainland. They were given HDB packages but were also allowed to still live on the island if they wished. However like many communities the population is an ageing one with the younger generation moving to the City and not wishing, or able to continuing the old ways. At present there is still a rural existence with wood houses, many stilted. Although the Government has many ideas for Pulau Ubin at present it has largely been left alone to the locals, wildlife, campers and daily visitors. Long may it remain so...


As we walked just a short way around, which probably covered just a 1/3 of the island, we spotted a couple of hornbills. This is one of Ubins success stories, they were once extinct but have been reestablished successfully and are now breeding. Just in the short area we covered the amount of wildlife we saw was varied, sadly I couldn't tell you what most of them were. The noise from the birds and insects was almost defending but a pleasant relaxing noise compared to that of the traffic and construction on the mainland.

A long way up but I think this is a Dollar bird?
As we sheltered from a heavy storm we could hear the trees rusting, coconuts falling and various thuds and crashes, we then spotted a troop of monkeys playing around in the trees just a few feet from our shelter. Pretty sure they were unimpressed with us hogging the shelter which I'm sure was there local hang out. We passed by here a couple times once with a coconut on the floor, next time it had vanished and the final time with a young durian in its place, they were hiding from us!

Monkey far up in a coconut palm waiting for us to vacate our/their shelter
Passing by a couple of lotus filled ponds we stood and took a number of photos of various dragon flies who very obligingly posed for us on the flower buds and leaves. Everywhere we turned we were met by the dancing of dozens of different butterflies, something we sadly don't see that many of in the UK any more, these however weren't as obliging as the dragonflies and weren't keen on sitting still for their portraits to be taken!






The one and only stationary butterfly
We also spotted volcano shaped mud mounds with holes in the centre. These turned out to be from the endangered mud lobsters (Thalassina) These were all along the paths of the mangrove swamps. These mounds can be built up to a few meters in height and the lobsters can burrow down to 2 meters into the soil which make them very important to the ecosystem as they bring nutrients up. There are 5 types of these 12 inch long creatures in Singapore and are endangered, probably due to their loss of habitat. I did wonder how tasty they might be but apparently they are bland and tasteless.

Mud Lobster mounds
I was pleased to pass a number of the local houses nestled into the "jungle" giving an idyllic and peacefully picture. These home are self built, wooden with some on stilts. Probably the most famous home is that of a blue house nestled into a dip in the contours of the land, it has been featured on many programs, magazines and to most of us this is the iconic image of the life on Ubin we envisage. This blue house was all but demolished in Dec 2012 when a 90 year durian tree fell onto it. We passed by and saw it empty and partly constructed. I am aware its an elderly person who owned it that I believe no longer lives on the island. Will it be rebuilt?

The "Blue" house after the durian tree destroyed it in 2012 courtesy of Stomp
The "Blue" house today being restored or taken down?
We also passed 427 Pulau Ubin, the home of the former village head who died in 2006 aged 101.

427. The home of the former head of the island
Amongst the gardens and escaping into the jungle were the ever needed fruit grown for the inhabitants. Spotted were bananas, rambutans, durians and many jack fruit which seemed to be left to rot, obviously not a favourite for some. I wish I knew what some of these plants, fruits and birds were as I'm sure we missed much with our very limited knowledge.

one of the many jackfruit left to rot on the trees, many were on the floor too.
young durian
Cacao?
and this fruit? looks like orange but on a vine?
Anyway after several hours it was time to drag our weary bones off the island and for me to take the 1hr and 20 mins bus journey back home for a much needed snooze. Definitely feeling my age but having had a wonderful day. Already planning my next excursion to explore some more.

no need to tell me twice!

A fairy Cemetery - Bidadari

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Bidadari Memorial Garden



Bidadari meaning fairy according to Wikipedia, coming from the Sanskrit word widyadari. These fairies are reported to be kind, an angel, a nymph. In another record its also stated that the word comes from the Malay for fairy, so I'm not sure which is correct but either way "fairy" it is! However the "fairy" in question is not a nymph, angel, sprite or any "out of the world" mythical creature, but in this case its come from the description given to Sultan Abu Bakars wife, who was reported to be a great beauty and whose land the original Bidadari cemetery was built on in the early 1900s.

The land, where once a couple of cemeteries stood on, had been a large plantation (cemeteries were often built on old plantations as they were set away from the population and covered large areas) A large house was built between 1855-61 and was later bought by The Sultan of Johor, Abu Bakar. The house was later demolished in 1915 after Abu Bakar sold the land.

1903 - 45 acres of land were sold with plans to build a Christian cemetery.
1905 - A further 33 acres bought for a Muslim cemetery as well.
30 Dec 1907 - cemetery was consecrated.
1908 - Christian cemetery was opened
1910 - Muslim cemetery opened
1925 - More landed was purchased and a Hindu cemetery was in place. According to records I've read the first Hindu to buried here was Koona Pillay.

Taken from an information board, the view of the old cemetery and the town park.
Burials ceased here in 1972 with at the time appox 147,000 graves in situ, it became a popular park. The local Gurkha's even used it for running exercises. Between 2001-4 the graves were exhumed and it was opened as a temporary town park as it was then known it would later be redeveloped. I'm beginning to feel I mention this in nearly all of my posts, redevelopment, redevelopment and yes redevelopment ... sigh, but land is scarce in Singapore I know.... In 2004 the Memorial Garden was built to remember the cemetery and a number of prominent peoples headstones were placed in the garden, with one of the sets of gates placed at the entrance. In 2012 work finally started on new homes and buildings and in August 2013 plans were announced for 3 new towns in Singapore with one being Bidadari new town. The Memorial Garden will soon ceased to exist, although plans have been made to relocate it into a new town park, covering 10 hectares which will include also a lake called Alkaff Lake.


You enter the Garden through the old gates and it is divided into 3 small sections, commemorating the 3 religions of the old cemeteries. The headstones have been taken from prominent Singaporeans and people of history. It includes 21 headstones.

Memorial plaque commemorating the British Merchant seamen. My husbands uncle served in Singapore as one.
I took a 30 minute bus ride up to visit here, before it disappears completely and it also gave me the chance to visit another new area. I passed by void decks painted along Pipit Rd which I think I'll take a trip back there to view more and take in the local shops and hawker centres - interesting.

A pagoda in the modern but not also closed Mount Vernon Columbarium
I alighted and soon found Mount Vernon Drive. The area is surrounded by military camps and as I walked up the drive I saw the sign for Gurkha's - I wasn't aware they were in Singapore. Sitting next to the Memorial Garden is Mount Vernon Columbarium, architecturally interesting in its own right with a tall pagoda in its centre. This modern place too has recently been closed and will disappear under Bidadari New Town.

The garden itself is small and I was probably only there 20/30 minutes, much smaller than I had anticipated and I wouldn't recommend people travelling far to make just one solo visit. More if you're passing, or have other things to visit nearby, take a short break to have a rest in the peaceful surroundings ..... While they're still there.

Memorial to the first Hindu to be buried at the cemetery, Koona Pillay.
The Christian Garden
Albert Bidwell, architect of Singapore
Alexander Gordon, Municipal architect of Singapore and President of the Institute of Architects of Malaya 1930-31
The Muslim Garden



Dragon kiln - Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle

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Travel over to the west of Singapore and one place you must visit is Thow Kwang Pottery jungle, better known as the Dragon Kilns. You will find this at 85 Lorong Tawas, Jalan Bahar. Here if you are looking for a vase, flower pot, lamp or other pottery creation you are sure to find something and you'll be amazed at how several hours will have flown past, especially if you take part in a pottery class.

You can always take a class in pottery making 
There were once 9 kilns along Jurong Rd in its height, with more than 20 in the whole of Singapore in the last century, now only 2 remain and can be found here. The potteries were set up predominantly to make the pottery latex cups used in rubber tapping, rubber plantations once covered vast swathes of Singapore. With the demise in rubber production so the kilns died out, but these 2 have survived by diversifying into flower pots etc and are now home to a vast array of ceramics, many imported from overseas. 


Dragon kilns or anagama originate from China and before that Korea. Anagama means cave, in Japanese which is what they basically are. They are a sloping tunnel shape, fuelled by wood, making it hard to maintain temperature. They can reach a massive heat of up to 1300 degrees Celsius and firing can take between 48hrs to 2 weeks. They have become affectionately termed dragon kilns due to there shape and "fire breathing" the head of the dragon being at the top and the tail at the bottom of the slope. The knowledge of the use of these dragon kilns was brought over to Singapore by the Chinese in the early 20th century. The pottery produced in this way has a myriad of patterns, textures and different colours to the glaze, this is due to the wood ash falling onto the piece, during the firing process, making each piece individual.

Floor to ceiling as far as the eye can see are ceramics
There were 3 dragons kilns until relatively recently, Sam Mui Kwang, Guan Guat and Thow Kwang. Sam Mui Kwang was once Hwi Yoh kiln run by the Chua family along Jalan Hwi Yoh. It operated until the 1990s when it was demolished, the family moved and opened up Sam Mui Kwang.
Thow Kwang was founded in 1965. 
Guan Huat was built by Mr Lee Yong Lee in 1958 and this dragon kiln was the longest in Singapore. This also closed in the 1990s but was bought and restored by the Singapore Tourist Board and reopened in 2003 as the Jalan Bahar studio & Dragon Kiln Village.


Although the dragon kilns are lit very infrequently here now, the site is still worth a visit and look around, with many gift opportunities. We couldn't leave without buying a decorated tile/plaque that was intended for a gift but now sits on one of our sideboards, never making it to the intended person - ooops!! 
Many of the pieces you will see in department stores across the globe, but it's interesting to search out the more unique pieces and as mentioned before look out for the pottery lessons that are offered.


The site was under threat as it's lease was due to expire at the end of 2014 but in August 2013 it was given permission to extend for another 3 years and then for 2 more 3 year terms after that, so plenty of time to take a trip over to investigate.

Some of the 17 vents along the side of the "dragon"


inside the beast

Either side of the vents are named with places in Singapore
Some of the "throw aways"


Kwong Wai Shui Hospital

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I took a different bus today, something I really should do more often. I was en route to Serangoon Rd to visit a temple I had missed, don't ask me how I missed it, I thought I'd been up and down that road many times, but anyway I digress and that's another post on another day!

Today I alighted along Boon Keng Rd in Bendemeer and made my way along Serangoon Rd. Here I noticed a 1960s building, with what looked like older buildings at either end. Conveniently it turned out to be a stop on the Jalan Besar area Heritage trial, with a timely information board just where I stood! You can find Kwong Wai Shu Hospital and nursing home at 705 Serangoon Rd. 

1960s front facade
Another view - the 60s building and the back colonial buildings are to remain, thankfully!
Kwong Wai Shu Hospital was originally known as the "Cantonese Free Hospital" and is one of the oldest charitable hospitals in Singapore, founded in 1910 by Cantonese merchants Wong Ah Fook (1837-1918) Leong Man San (1866-1916) Yow Ngan Pan (1863-1930) and Ng Seng Pang (1873-1953) providing free medical care for the poor from  Kwong Chua (Guangzhou), Wai Chua (Huizhou) and Shui Leng (Zhaoqing) in Guangdong, China, hence the change in name which only happened in 1973. The hospital provided free care for Cantonese inpatients, although it was free to all for outpatients,but inpatients were opened to all for free in 1974. The area the Hospital sits on was known in Malay as Rumah Miskin (poor mans house) and in Hokkien Mangka ka (foot of the jackfruit tree) apparently referring to jackfruit looking sores on patients legs. 

Wong Ah Fook 
Leong Man San
Yow Ngan Pan

The hospital used the site of the old Tan Tock Seng Hospital (previously at Pearls Hill) which was there from 1861until it relocated in 1909 to Moulmein Rd, where it still stands. 

The front facade in its early years

At present the front building is a 1960s buildings and behind you will find 3 older colonial bungalows, forming a courtyard, which were built in 1857, in the centre a Chinese pavilion was built in 1958. I didn't feel comfortable wandering around the Hospital and what is now a nursing home, so sadly no photos of these buildings, something I regret somewhat. However take a look at this great blog    http://placesbuildings-in-singapore.blogspot.sg/2011/05/kwong-wai-shiu-hospital.html?showComment=1409730075714&m=1   and you can see what I've missed, perhaps I will take a trip back again and take a peak, great colonial buildings :)

The 99 year lease was leased originally from the British Government for a yearly peppercorn rent of just $1, when the lease expired in 2010 a new lease was granted by the Singapore Government at an annual charge of $1.4 million!!! Thankfully subsidies are said to cover this, although the Hospital still relies on many charitable donations. 

The new expansion should like this when its completed in a few years

It was announced there would be a $96 million expansion of a 12 storey building to one side. It will provide 600 beds, up from 350 and will be the "largest nursing home and medical hub for the elderly" in Singapore.  The 1960s facade and colonial buildings will be retained so I am sure much of the historical feel of the place will remain.

The Chinese pavilion in the centre surrounded on 3 sides by the colonial style bungalows (taken from the information board)


It still surprises me what you will see in Singapore if you turn a different corner to the usual and take note of your surroundings.  Happy exploring! 

Project World Colours - May 2014

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PINK


May 2014

Ok so this months colour is pink. I love pink, its one of my favorite colours, so this month should be easy, right?  Wrong!  As I've discovered it may be a colour I wear often and would choose if someone asked me pick a colour but, when it comes to photographs of all things pink I really struggled.

So for all things pink I have trawled the archives and settled on flora.











The other posts from Project World Colours can be found here http://projectworldcolors.com

Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple

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Now I've explored Little India many a time, I've been up and down Serangoon Rd more times that I can remember, but looking at Hindu temple images on the Internet I realised I'd missed one! It visually looks very different to the others, more angular, squarer than the others in some way, even though of course it is decorated with the normal pyramid shaped towers, covered with brightly coloured Hindu figures which make these temples so striking.  I'm thinking I must of always taken a side road just before it, to catch the public transport back home in the past, having entered the road from the other end.

Sri Vadaparhira Kaliamman Temple is situated at 555 Serangoon Road just a few metres from the junction with Balestier Rd (which in its own right has a plethora of temples and an interesting heritage trail which I visited a few months ago)


Now it's a very long time since I was at school sitting my O and A levels and although I had to learn about the Hindu gods I'm sorry to say I failed miserably and struggle to remember much about them, although more does seem to come back to me with such a large Hindu population and strong culture here in Singapore. 

To outline a very brief potted history of Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman, it was originally started in 1830 close to it's current location at the junction of Serangoon and Balestier roads by a female devotee. This position was due to the fact there were a number of wells there, so it grew in popularity as many people congregated at this spot. The main deity is Kali. Goddess Kali is also known as the Dark Mother, portrayed as black, a strong woman linked to destruction, change, but a passionate protecting mother. Her male partner was Shiva.

Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman

Anyway the Temple has gone through many restorations and expansions. In 1935 it was turned into a true temple by Rengasamy Mooriyar. 1945 it was expanded again by Kottavai Govindasamy. Another major restoration was started in 1982 which took 2 years to complete and finally in 2003 the latest expansion and renovation took place with the "new" temple consecrated on 23/01/2005. 

The inside was full of vibrancy with many devotees there, at mid morning when I visited, some appeared to be having lessons, whereas others were walking around the temple clockwise, stopping to pray at each deity on their travel around this temple. 


Looking into the deities it's stated that the ones here are
Sri Vinayagar (the elephant god)
Sri Ramar
Sri Periyachi Amman 
Sri Nageswari Amman 
Sri Muneeswarar
Sri Madurai Veeran
Sri Saneeswarar
Hanuman - the monkey god ......

However it did appear to me there were more but I could be mistaken....... 




Sri Nagewasri Amman. Note the naga or snake protecting him. The snake is an important creature in Hindu worship and was adopted by the Hindus from its on Naga worship.

Hanuman I believe
Sri Ramar

I'm glad I took this opportunity to visit this temple and I'm pretty confident that I haven't missed any others along Serangoon Road .... well hopefully not!


2014 Mid Autumn Festival

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The Chinese festival falls on the 8th month of the Chinese calendar and is also known as the Mooncake or Lantern Festival.

I'm not going to write a long post explaining all about this bright festival as I did so last year and you can read about it here....  http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2013/09/mid-autumn-festival-mass-lantern-parade.html


In 2014 the festival starts on 8 Sept, but the festivities, food bazaar and lantern displays run from 23 Aug to 28 Sept, so still time to take a trip there to see the lanterns decorating South Bridge Rd, New Bridge Rd and Eu Tong Sen Rd. For 2014 the theme is flowers. Along South Bridge Rd are orchids and I just love the central stamen of these "flowers" Those along Eu Tong Sen Rd and New Bridge Rd appear to be "daisy like" in design and at the crossroads of Eu Tong Sen and Upper Cross St is a tower of flowers, between the 2 roads are various flowers, rabbits and birds. Plenty of photo opportunities whether during the day or the evening when they are transformed after the lights have been switched on. 



Sat 6 Sept and I took hubby down to see the mass lantern parade, as he was away travelling last year, as are so many husbands working here, they miss out on so much this country has to see. 

I have to admit the parade seemed silently chaotic and disorganised this year. The children putting on dance displays on the central stage along Eu Tong Sen had many troubles with the sound system, the parade itself was due to start at 19:00 was delayed and once it arrived in Eu Tong Sen it seemed much larger than last years, with people just stopping in the road, walking in every direction. When finally the dragons, lions and other dancers came passed it was all rather chaotic and those of us that had stood patiently, waiting for 3 hours, weren't able to see much at all. Having said that though I'm sure the children enjoyed carrying their lanterns and walking the route. I doubt though whether I will make the trip for the walk for a third year, much better to take trip to see the decorations on another day.

Whinge over!! and I hope you enjoy the photos, some courtesy of hubby

The Lights











The Parade 



Not sure who or what this is meant to be? :)

Dancers
Hope he secures his stilts tightly!
Some of the young children performing 
The only way I could view the drummers was through "aunties" ipad recording in front of me!!


Gardens by the Bay. Mid Autumn Festival

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Following on from yesterday's post I couldn't really mention the Chinese Mid Autumn Festival without mentioning and indeed visiting the giant lanterns that have been out in The Gardens by the Bay for the 7th year running. I didn't get a chance to see them last year and although hubby is again travelling this week and still won't get the chance to visit, I managed to take a trip down on Monday to experience the spectacle. The festival runs at the gardens from 4-14 Sept and all the information on whats on, and all about the lanterns can be found here.




I arrived slightly early before it was dark, so I would recommend you get there for about 19:00, although it did give me a chance to wander around the whole gardens before the masses arrived. Its great to see so many people, old and young, visiting this and enjoying some simple pleasures.




Some of the themes this year are the Chinese zodiac figures,which are probably my favourite. On the Lake are The Eight Immortals crossing the bridge, the ever popular Chinese Palace and the voyage of Cheng Ho (Zheng He) a Chinese eunuch, a sailor and explorer who's travels in the 14th century have passed into Chinese history. You will also see lanterns depicting different countries around the world and many many more. I'm hoping to get back at the weekend before it ends, once hubby is back in the country.

The Chinese Palace. I make no apologies that there a number of shots of this lantern, but with its setting they were just too difficult to chose between!
The Eight Immortals
Cheng Ho 

Apart from the lanterns, there is of course food!! well it is Singapore.... moon cakes and other mid autumn delicacies abound. You can make lanterns, various exhibitions and competitions make it popular with everyone. Throughout the festival there will also be cultural performances (all details again are on their website) Monday evening I briefly caught a dance performance just under the Super Trees. Talking of Super Trees there is of course the twice nightly musical rhapsody, when the trees light up to the music being payed, always enchanting and magical.




The Festival runs from until Sunday 14th so still plenty of time to take a trip down there and spend a pleasant evening :)

As the day of the Mid Autumn Festival cumulates in the full moon, I couldn't in all honesty leave out the greatest lantern of them all :)





Chinese zodiac lantern of the Horse. 2014 is the Year of the Horse and I was also born in the Year of the Horse, its supposed to be a good year for me - well it hasn't been to bad so far! 
The Rooster 





The Southern Ridges. WALK

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I remember when I first heard we were moving to Singapore, we read many of the travel books, trying to see what was here, what to fill our spare time with. Having grown up with our holidays involving predominately walking in the picturesque national parks of the UK, I was keen to visit the Southern Ridges and have indeed now been numerous times in different directions, start and finish points and in all weathers. OK it may not be the craggy mountains and deep valleys I'm used to, but on this tiny island it's a small haven and in 30 + degree heat the short hills certainly make you puff!!

As I mentioned there are several start points but for the purpose of this post I shall start in the west and finish walking down the Marang trail ending at Harbour Front MRT. 



The southern ridges are, as stated, a coast hill ridge that runs 10km along the southern edge of Singapore and are split into different parks and walkways. In the west lies Kent Ridge park and although some guides say you can start the walk at West Coast Park through Clementi Woods and up into Kent Ridge, a major portion of this is along the road, therefore the general consensus is to start (or finish) at Kent Ridge. Starting positions can be from Haw Par Villa MRT, walking up a steep winding road to the top of the park or alternatively Kent Ridge MRT, where a short walk through the Science Park brings you into the base of the park by two lakes filled with wildlife. Mynah birds, monitor lizards, kingfishers, turtles and dozen of different species of dragon and damsel fly are just a few that can be spotted here. 






Up to the top of Kent Ridge and you can take a breather, looking out of the sea at the new vast harbour being built, each time we visit more and more land has been "built" and the southern coast lives up to its industrial tag. 



From Kent Ridge you must take the 280 metre long Canopy Walk, a raised wooden walkway above the forest that gives views of Singapore and in the distance sits Canterbury road area with many "back and whites' (Colonial houses)  Each time I come along here I'm greeted by this massive flying black beetle, which I've affectionately named the "flying tank", how it takes off and stays in the air I don't know, it really doesn't look like it was built to fly. At the end of the walk sits Reflections at Bukit Chandu. A small museum housed in another old black and white. Entrance is just $2 for non Singaporeans. Singaporeans and PRs get in free. The museum is all about the Singapore 1st and 2nd Malay Regiment and the defence of Bukit Chandu and Pasir Panjang. The terrible bombing and battle fought by the 2nd Battalion on 13 Feb 1942, just 2 days before the British surrendered Singapore. A small but interesting place, well worth a visit, especially if you have older parents and relatives visiting. A kindly uncle always seems to be on hand, eager to show you everything. 





From Bukit Chandu and the Canopy Walk we walk down a zig zag path to the bottom of the ridge line into Hort Park, a 23 hectare park containing what is described as a "one-stop gardening hub", specializing in education and research. It was opened in December 2007. Refreshments are available here and many families bring their children to enjoy the individual Gardens that are in show here, you can even get married here! Walking out of Hort park you pass through the Floral Walk and on most visits you will be able to see many sunbirds.







You now come to the busy Alexander road and Alexander Arch bridge, where if you wish you can turn right and walk down the road to end your walk at Labrador MRT or indeed pass down Berlayer Creek and explore Labrador Park nature reserve and back along Keppel Bay (another individual walk we've completed several times) However, we're walking the length of the Ridges today so, we cross over Alexander arch "Gateway to Nature" a large 80 metre metal bridge designed to represent an open leaf, its lit at night between 19:00 - 0:00 with changing coloured bulbs. 




The bridge takes you on the metal raised walkways of the Forest Walk that zig zag over the forest and up to Telok Blangah Hill. As you walk above the treetops of "Adinandra Belukar" secondary rainforest, we have spotted laughing thrushes, drongos, Koels, Golden Orioles, other birds, squirrels. You will again pass by a row of black and white colonial houses. 









At the end of the walkway on Telok Blangah hill, take the road right, then left up a short steep stretch, you have now arrived on top of the Terrace Garden, with stunning views over the city. This is Victorian style ballustraded terrace garden, planted with vibrant coloured bougainvilleas. 





From here it's a short stroll to the architecturally stunning Henderson Waves Bridge. The 274 metre long bridge links Telok Blangah hill to Mount Faber and sits 36 metres above ground, making it the highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore. 





You have now reached Mt Faber park, with various pathways through the forest to the top, where it says you can see a 360 degree view of Singapore (perhaps if you cut some trees down) having said that still some good views and spot the small merlion that's there.




A little further on and you reach Jewel Box where you can take the cable car across to Sentosa. A small number of shops and cafés are here, if you need refreshment, before the last stretch of the walk, down off the ridge via the Marang Trail. It's down hill all the way here, on mainly wooden steps, passing by a few more black and whites and where we've spotted several golden orb spiders. 







At the bottom as you come out of the trees and with Harbour Front MRT in front, look carefully to your left and you should be able to spot a Malay tomb and some graves stones, some dating back to 1866. There was once a Malay Kampong here called Kampong Marang.




As I said this is just one way to enjoy and walk the ridges, but there are various computations that can be explored. Take a wander and enjoy, OK it's not wild, barren and at no time do you forget you're in Singapore, as everything is manicured and well kept, but it's still good to get out, see some wildlife and stretch those legs :) 






F1 and Robbie Williams come to town!

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Images of a fabulous weekend 



OK its Monday afternoon on the 22 September 2014 and I am just about recovered from my manic weekend. I'm getting too old for 3 late nights in a row, but what a fantastic weekend it has been :)  19th - 21st September saw Singapore celebrate their F1 night time Grand Prix which first started in 2008, with all the glitz and glamour that comes when this bandwagon rolls into this lil ol'town.



Oh I've seen some sights! the good and the beautiful, the rich and uber uber rich, have been in town and have been out showing themselves. The amount of alcohol that's been drunk and the tons of food just doesn't bear thinking about, they even ran out of my prosecco!! horror! And apart from a few westerners that had consumed too much of the grape juice on Saturday night, everything seemed to run like clockwork - what else would you expect in Singapore. The Stewards and greeters couldn't have been more helpful and polite and as we all left Sunday, after the race they waved and wished us well, one even shaking my hand. OK they've been trained to do this, but praise where its due they deserved our thanks.

MBS lit up.
I admit Saturdays highlight for me wasn't the qualifying but of course, along with thousands of others, it was Robbie Williams singing and entertaining us on the Padang. Just as he began his first few lines of his first song "Let me entertain you" Singapore's weather does what it does best, a 2 hour tropical thunderstorm! Within seconds we were all drenched including Robbie himself, but did he falter? did he pull the plug? no, he showed us what a true entertainer he truly is and put on an amazing show, in fact the weather just added to it. With torrential rain, mud, thunder and vertical lightning adding to the light show, we had the time of our lives. Unlike Glastonbury it was still hot, damn hot! or was that just the effect Robbie had on us all :P  Sorry hubby, love you really but come on it is Robbie sigh!!! xx





Sunday saw the race itself and we arrived early afternoon to see the Porsche race, the drivers parade and wander around the stalls and of course sip a few beers. The Singapore haze descended late afternoon, with an acrid smell in the air and giving an early November fog like scene to Marina Bay. For non Singaporeans the "haze" is in fact smog! Blown over a few times a year from burning of crops and rain forests in Indonesia.

The "haze" giving an eerie light
Lewis Hamilton was pole and he didn't let us down, apart from a few laps after a pit change very close to the end, he led the way the whole time. Coming over the line to win in magnificent style. A great weekend for Great Britain - Friday it stays Great Britain with Scotland voting to stay in the UK, Robbie on Saturday and a Brit winning on Sunday, what more can we wish for?

So below are a few photos just to highlight a super weekend had by us. Not great photos, many are from my phone and I've pinched a few from my hubby and friend, but I hope it gives a feel for the event.  Now to have a rest and recover


The clouds descended
That didn't stop our enjoyment of Robbie




Sea Sick Steve, a favorite with hubby








hubby and L not letting the weather ruin the spirit :)
Ahhhh looking at Robbie :)



Yixing Xuan Teahouse

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Along with a group of friends I visited one of just 10 tea houses still operating in Singapore. Situated at 30 Tanjong Pagar rd, close to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, in Singapore's Chinatown. 

Vincent Low is the owner, whose previous reincarnation was as a coffee drinking banker, who decided to change his life, he trained all about tea in China and gave us a very informative, clear, enthusiastic and knowledgeable talk all about tea. 

There is just 1 tea, did you know that? Well I guess most people do, camellia sinensis, but did you know from this one plants comes just 4 types of tea, yes just 4! all the others are either not true teas but from other plants, flowers and herbs, whilst the teas that most of us are used to are blends with "flavourings/oils" added ie lapsang souchong, Earl grey, Jasmine etc etc 

The 4 teas are 'white''green''oolong''black'

The best, the purest, the healthiest and of course the most expensive is the 'white' I have to admit although a big tea drinker I had never tried white tea before and to be honest it didn't grab me, perhaps it was just too delicate for my heathen taste buds.

The teas are good for your blood and are packed with antioxidants and polyphenols, cancer fighting properties. But, be warned, don't add milk or sugar as it nullifies the benefits! 



Mr Low explained how the supermarket teas are not as good as those from tea shops, as they're older and therefore blacker in colour and bitter to taste. He explained which part of the bush the leaves were picked from for each of the teas, the tip for the white down to the stem and leaves picked mechanically and then heated and oxidised for the black tea. 

White - this is hand picked from the tips and is air dried hence it keeps most of its colour. It is covered in very fine hairs and when water is poured over them, it should be at a maximum of 75 degrees, never use boiling water.

Green - I have this every morning :) Again the top leaves are picked but this time instead of air drying they are quickly dried either by oven, in a pan or steam dried. 75 degrees again is the maximum the water should be to keep the taste.

Oolong - There are a vast array of Oolong teas. This tea is made by rolling the leaves which allows it to oxidize with the air and darken. Its then pan dried and rolled again. Because of the different processes and time variations this is why there are many Oolongs. Mr Low sells his own called Beauty of the East.

Black - A stronger tasting tea, this is due to the fact that is is picked, dried out completely and then rolled, afterwards it is heated.

Pu-Er - This is the tea you will see in wrapped discs of solid tea. The leaves have been aged. The tea is from China and is reportedly full of health giving benefits. But we warned - use boiling water on this tea to kill any possible "nasties"

We were then given a demonstration in tea pouring and the different size teapots, so tiny compared to what I'm used to in the West. The water is poured onto the leaves not once, but preferably twice and the water poured away before the tea is ready to drink. It is then poured into a small upright cup, to allow you to smell the aroma, before then pouring into a tiny cup for drinking. 


Throughout the presentation we were given the opportunity to smell the different teas, before we then enjoyed a Tim sum lunch where we sampled the different teas, white, green, oolong and jasmine. 

All in all a thoroughly enjoyable and informative couple of hours. I would certainly recommend a visit here. Thanks to my friends L and R for the use of their photos as well as those of mine :) 

All the details can be found here   http://www.yixingxuan-teahouse.com/index.php











Hobbnobbing with the famous!!

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Mad about Singapore




To celebrate Singapore's 49th birthday @instaSG (instagrammers Singapore) asked instagrammers to post a shot to sum up Singapore through a picture.

11,000 pictures were hashtagged and 100 were selected as winners. Drum roll please........my friend and fellow instagrammer  @louisejraggett was one of the top 100. Woohoo!!!! Applause and cheering commences......

Her photo of an HDB decorated in the red and white of the Singapore national flag sums up Singapore's 49th celebrations perfectly. 



So today we popped down to the exhibition, which is showing now at ION ORCHARD, B4 ION STATION daily from 10:00-21:00 until 1st October. 

Shockingly the young lads didn't recognise my now famous friend, not even when she stood posing in front of her photo!! Too busy chatting with each other. But at least I was there to bow and ask for her autograph.... Before a quick trip for lunch to the food court and a look around Marks and Spencer sale section... Well she's not too famous to miss a bargain!!


"The Great One" in front of her masterpiece! Doesn't she look comfortable with her new found status as one of the worlds 'A' list celebs :)

If you want to follow an award winning instagrammer you can do so via @louisejraggett on Instagram. 


Pretty in Pink

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Last Saturday Singapores Gardens by the Bay East was awash in a sea of pink. Pink t-shirts, pink umbrellas, wigs, super fantastic pink tutus - more about them later, pink everything, even a pink Spider-Man! And in 30+ degree heat plenty of pink faces!

The occasion? The annual Pink Ribbon Walk, a 4.1 km amble from Gardens by the Bay East across The Barrage, following the winding path up to above the Green Roof, then back down and a meander back to the start. Although there was much fun and merriment, the reason so many were gathered here and had made the effort to "pimp" their costumes, was truly serious one, to make us breast aware and the event is held in support of the BCF (Breast Cancer Foundation) 

Now I'm not going to get heavy and maudlin about this, as the walk is a positive, fun filled occasion, but I doubt there is anyone in the world (sad to say) that hasn't been affected in some way by this cruel disease, whether family of friend, winner, fighter or loser, so what better reason to get out there and have fun and in amongst the several thousand there was our group of expat and local wives and friends.



Thanks to our very clever and crafty friend LA, we had spent an enjoyable giggle filled day together, a few weeks back making 3 toned tutus to wear and jazz up our look with the pink event t-shirts. We were clearly the best dressed there!!!!! 

Two, three toned tutus shaking their tooshes!!
As you can see from all photos we all had a great time, although an exceeding hot one, before the start (we had to be there an hour in advance) there was free food and drinks, manicures, face painting and glitter tattoos and if you were feeling very energetic Zumba for a warm up!! Not in this heat thank you very much!! A great party atmosphere with expats and locals all bonding for the same cause, with much sharing of selfies and group photos. Friend L even convinced pink Spider-Man to come and pose with our group. 

Pink spider man posing with some of our ladies :)



At about 17:30 we were finally off to cheers, whistles and waves, pink wigs, balloons and of course tutus flying! We passed Darth Vader, and a couple of storm troopers - my they must of been roasting inside their costumes. Up across the Barrage and surprising a wedding couple posing for their wedding photos, photo bombed by several thousand people in cerise! Certainly a unique wedding memento!





All of us completed, although a few took shortcuts, by knocking the corners off - you know who you are ladies!!! Walk over and a long cold drink imbibed, well may be more than just one!

Finished.....

October is breast cancer awareness month. What will you be doing?



Thanks to my "mad pink" friends for the use of some of their photos from the event :)












TICK TOCK .......

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18 months down and the clock is ticking I can hear it getting louder and louder  tickticktick tick... racing towards the midnight hour... But what will happen when it finally strikes THAT hour? a pumpkin, tiara, princess, cup of tea, bowl of noodles, kangaroo steak, temples, churches, rolling hills, desert, mountains...... 

tick, tick, tick

For the past 18 months I've repeated "Dorothy like" it only a bubble, it's only a bubble, however I've come to realise I rather like this bubble, this is my bubble and I own it, it's my escape from reality, perhaps this is the real me. Hmmmm is this what freedom has shown me?

tick, tick

Feeling slightly as if the earth isn't quite as stable as it was, too comfortable, how much longer will this continue, who will I become next and where will that be?

tick, tick, tick, tick, tick....




Indie Tours of Singapore

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Yesterday saw our meetup group trying something different. Instead of myself and friend taking the ladies around ourselves, we tried out a newly set up tour company Indie Singapore. These tours are free but welcome a "thank you gift" at the end.



Today we joined Wei, our enthusiastic, clear spoken guide, as he shared the usual "Kampong Wednesday" tour through Bugis and Kampong Glam. 



Now I'm not going to write a huge piece about where we went or what was explained at each place, because that would take the enjoyment away for you and others to experience. Lets just say the 3 hour, 3 mile tour took us through the must see places, with little tidbits of local knowledge as well as historical facts. We started at Bugis Junction walking through Kampong Gam, Bugis and ended in the Art District outside the Art Museum after stopping en route for "elevenses" at a local hawker centre. 



The tour itself leads you passed places that make you say "I must go back and visit in more detail" Much of the sites I will admit to already have visited or knowing the stories behind, although there were some learning's for me, but then I have been exploring this tiny isle now for almost 2 years. The tours I would highly recommend for anyone new here, yet to explore or those that are holidaying here. They are free but we all happily gave a donation, as it was certainly equal or surpassed any paid tours. I would highly recommend this and urge anyone to give this a go. They are a new company and need your support :)



Indie Tours also explore Chinatown on Tuesdays of each week and the Civic area on Thursdays. They will also give private specialised tours on any area you may be interested in. 

GIVE THEM A GO!

All information on Indie Singapore can be found on their website here - http://www.indiesingapore.com or like them on Facebook here - https://www.facebook.com/indiesingapore     


The peeling bark of the Gelam tree from where the name Kampong Gelam (Glam) got its name.

Rub the lucky tummy!


Two weeks Down Under

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Well I been quiet on here for a short while, those that follow the blog via its Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/SingaporeTales?ref=hl will know that this is because hubby and I have just spent 2 weeks holidaying in Australia. When we came to Singapore we just knew that however a short time we might be here, we couldn't miss the opportunity to visit Australia. It's a place we probably would never of had the opportunity to do so from the UK, unless like many others we emigrated. 

When we started planning the trip we wrote a long list of places we dreamed of visiting there, Sydney Opera House, Harbour bridge, Great Barrier Reef, Uluru, kangaroos, koalas, penguins, emus, the Out Back, Blue mountains, vineyards etc etc..... the list was endless. We then looked at the map and reality hit us, AUSTRALIA IS BIG!!!

After much planing we narrowed it down to what we could squeeze into 2 short weeks (even then we haven't managed to do everything on the list) and we set off with grins on our faces "we're going to Australia, the otherside of the world". OK maybe not the otherside of the world to SG but it's is from UK!



Stop 1.

Sydney and area 



We landed in Sydney, deposited all our bags in the hotel in the CBD and headed the 10 min walk straight down to Circular Quay and off course Sydney Opera House, hubby's life long dream was to visit here and he admitted to having goosebumps when he saw it. Amazingly the first people we spoke to there were Singaporeans who wanted their photos taken :)






We spent a few days in Sydney and walked the CBD, Harbour Bridge (across not over too too expensive for us $250!!! per person) we explored the Botanical gardens, government house. 







The cityscape views were amazing and it was a delight to see so many old buildings. Not only old but very very grand, solid and massive in size too. I guess the UK city centres lost many of these buildings throughout WW2 . 














One of my favourite places was The Rocks, an area of houses dating back to the turn of the 20th century many of these homes are rented out as public housing. In The 1920s the bubonic plague broke here and the area at many times has been subject to the threat of demolition, but its has survived. It is however under threat again not of demolition, as the buildings are now "heritage" but those living, extremely cheaply, in the public houses are under threat of being "moved" elsewhere and the houses developed and of course the rents/sale values will soar, being in a prominent, central area of Sydney. To be honest, although sad for the residents, the area is somewhat run down and forgotten and something needs to be done, without killing the historical atmosphere of the place of course. 




After a beautiful first day that evening Sydney was hit by a freak weather storm, SG lightning and floods, with quite substantial damage being caused, power failures, transport stoppages and even snow in the nearby Blue mountains. We took a trip on the ferry to Manly on a stormy day with the water looking very choppy. As the ferry was turning out in the bay the waves became huge, I was filming but just as it appeared the ferry was going over I stopped!!! Certainly an experience I won't forget in a hurry.

Manly I loved, so many 1920/30s bungalows and homes, Due to the weather the beach was closed which gave us the place pretty much to ourselves - bliss, well pretty much to ourselves apart from those strange wet suited clad creatures that are surfers. The large waves were magnets to them and there they were out in the stormiest part of the Bay. We spent the day walking around the Manly spit. The place empty apart from us, trees down and branch debris blowing around. We met an interesting volunteer at the information building who gave a passionate and informative history of the area. If you go there it's well worth visiting this charitable information post. 










We couldn't come to Sydney and not go to Bondi beach now could we?? So the next day we hopped onto a bus (transport certainly seemed easy) and arrived to a beautifully sunny, but still breezy day. We spent a couple of lovely hours walking up and down the bay, spotted lifeguards from the TV programme Bondi Rescue - OK I admit it was probably me and not hubby who was lifeguard spotting ;)  We later walked south along the coast passed Icebergs, the outside swimming pool, at the edge of Bondi and then around the cliff side and down along the coast.







We left Sydney and flew to Melbourne where we picked up the hire car and drove south down to the coast. I have to admit I'm glad it wasn't me driving, those lorries are HUGE! 

Thoughts as we left Sydney on my first impressions of Australia, both good and bad..

Can be as cold as UK
Cornwall on steroids
Like childhoods memories of holidays with grandparents. Sydney does Victorian grandeur and shops better than the British!
Old buildings still in use, high streets still going strong, no charity shops, healthy community.
So many old buildings more than expected.
Very like home, trouble reminding myself I am in Australia. 
Like England with a bit of USA, Paris, San Fransisco etc etc thrown in.
Friendly people.
Beards are popular!!
All manner of people, all looks.
Man walking his cat on a pink lead.
Downside - too comfortable, easy, homelike, hoping Melbourne will make me feel I'm on the otherside of the planet 
lots of people smoking on the streets.
Don't have the comfortable holiday "freedom to be anyone" feel in Sydney, yes I did in Manly and  although not in Bondi. Bondi stunning but I prefer smaller coves south of Bondi. 

Stop 2.

Lorne (Great Ocean Road - OCR)


Well the Great Ocean Road certainly lived up to expectations! Words can't really do justice to the clean, turquoise and white rugged cliffs and sea. Boy it was cold though! that wind has come straight from Antarctica!! But it was clear, clean fresh and so good to breathe! Have to admit think I may have just got a little used to Singapore's constant heat and I really struggled with the temperatures!!




Lorne was lovely, we were out of season pretty much so it was relatively quiet, always a plus for me. Flocks of cockatoos and galahs (rose breasted cockatoos) were seen everywhere, just as seagulls are in UKs coastal towns and villages. What amazed me most was seeing parrots flying around. The bird life is certainly more colourful that the UKs birds.





We stayed in a Victorian, wrought iron, verandered hotel at the end of the bay, close to the pier, where we walked in the evening to watch the fishermen, who were all Greek, there seems to be a large Greek community here. 





We drove along the coast winding backwards and forwards (no straight roads here) and walked into the Otway Forest away from people where we were so excited to see koalas in the trees. It took us awhile but once we'd got our "eye in" we spotted numerous ones. We were even more delighted, as we then rounded a corner, there was one sitting by the road! He or she casually sauntered in front of us, across and down the hillside to his next tree - magical. This day we also spotted kookaburras, but I have to admit by the end of our holiday we had seen so many we were quite blase about them! 





Stop 3.

Apollo Bay 

The day we drove here we detoured into the Otway Forest, along a never ending, twisting, narrow, picturesque road with the straightest and tallest trees I've seen, shooting up from the hillside. We stopped and visited the Otway Fly, a 600 metre long, 30 metre high metal tree canopy walk. Great experience especially for someone who doesn't like heights, I was truly chuffed with myself. http://www.otwayfly.com





Then on to Apollo Bay, a large windswept unspoilt bay, with huge white horses of surf, extremely invigorating to walk along the front, again having the place pretty much to ourselves. 




A trip out from here that is a must was the drive further along this magnificent coast line to view the Twelve Apostles. Bedruthen Steps in Cornwall but on a gigantic scale. Certainly on my list of must sees, although I expect it would be extremely crowded during the peak season. 





Take another visit to the Cape Otway, the second most southerly point in Australia and visit the Lighthouse there, an idyllic if isolated windswept spot and the drive up and down to sit is through more gum forests where sadly the gumtrees are dying although nobody understands why. These trees are home to more koalas which we saw and sadly their food source is dwindling away. Although sad to know these trees are suffering, the silver of the trees against the bright blue skies gave to stunning photo opportunities.






I sadly bid farewell to the south coast and fresh sea air and we drove back to spend the last part of our trip in the CBD and exploring Melbourne. 

Stop 4.

Melbourne.

I'm not sure what I expected from Melbourne, too be honest whenever I thought of here it was always as, that's where Neighbours is from!!! Hubby had flatly refused to visit "Ramsey Street" so that was definitely off the itinerary :)
We headed straight to the information centre at Federation Square, a place I would end up coming to each day as there's free wifi. A great idea to get people to come together. 
Melbourne is a busy, quirky, artistic city where it felt like almost anything goes, especially tattoos, beards and pink or blue hair!! Clearly an artistic centre. Lots of rough sleepers and an awful lot of smokers, something that surprised me throughout our holiday, I had always had the impression of Australia being a health conscious nation.









Over the 4 days we were there I think we pretty much walked every street within the inner city. From Victoria Park, Botanic Gardens, museums,Yarrow River walks, the magical shopping arcades which reminded me of my forgotten childhood, a memory of what the UK used to be like. Tall statuesque buildings. Various districts with differing architecture, Oh and trams mustn't forget the trams!




Singapore and Singaporeans are renowned for their love of food and eating, but I have to say Melbourne is right up there too. The food again was incredibly fresh and as before massive portions. After day 2 I literally couldn't eat dinner that night, I would of exploded!! The streets are lined with cafe after cafe and everyone seems to be completing business there rather than in their offices. Parks were being used for recreation and at lunchtimes those in suits exchanged them for shorts and sportswear and were seen running around the parks, grabbing a quick bite, before back to an afternoon of work. 
The city itself is an eclectic mix of countries, architectural styles, ugly tag graffiti and amazing street art. It felt like anything goes here. 







Victoria Market is a must for any visitor, from the tourist "souvenirs" and clothing, to the utterly gourmet delights of the fresh meat, fish, delicatessens that made us salivate and plan how we could some how transport the whole place back to Singapore. We had hunted and researched somewhere we could get some real aboriginal art and found this lovely lady and her son in a "shop" Koorie Connections, on the edge of the market. An aboriginal herself Julie Peers has,over many years, grown the business where grandmothers produce the artwork and help provide for their grandchildren. She has won many awards and we must of spent a good hour of more with her as she explained about many of the ladies, the history and helped us to understand the artwork. We're delighted with that we purchased. She can be found here http://www.enjoygram.com/koorie.connections.altair 


We went up the highest skydeck in the Southern Hemisphere and on our last day took the tram just a few stops to the coast at St Kilda. Here we walked along the pier, watching just about every form of  waterborne transport and sport you could possibly think of and spotting two penguins asleep in the rocks, before a walk along the front then returning for a final meal signalling the end of our trip. 











Thoughts as we ended our second week 

Week 2. 
Melbourne flat, industrial but suddenly we feel we're in Australia. Flat low lying bungalows, gumtree lined roads /and scrubland.
Signs for kangaroos 
Galahs, parakeets and cockatoos everywhere. Cockatoos in flocks out fighting and scavenging the seagulls for human food.
Beautiful cyan blue skies and Tasmanian sea again Cornwall on steroids.
Small towns/villages still with the architectural Heritage in tact, a blast from my childhood. 
Great too see the independent stores thriving.
People so friendly, say hello "g'day" as you pass by.
Now I'm on holiday!!
Would I spend all the money from UK to get here? - home away from home, can see why people from UK wish to emigrate here. 
HUGE portions of food!


Thoughts on the Australia we visited and experienced.

Only saw and experienced a tiny tiny portion of this massive island, so my thoughts would no doubt change and evolve under different visits. I was surprised that I had to keep reminding myself I was in Australia, the otherside of the world to the UK. Everything seemed so familiar and yet different at the same time, one moment in Paris, then San Francisco, New York, York, Newcastle, Edinburgh and on and on. At every turn of corner I felt I was transported to another place, both familiar and slightly unsettling at times. I hadn't expected this but thinking of Australia's history and that's it's still a relatively "new" country I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Maybe to truly feel I was in Australia I needed to visit the outback, Uluru, somewhere that could only be Australia. The country is huge, the portions are huge! The people incredibly friendly outgoing and so enthusiastic :)

A terrific holiday, a place I never thought I would visit. I'm a very lucky lady. 








RAF Seletar and its "black and whites"

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The day after I arrived back from Australia, a friend invited myself and other ladies to join her as we visited the first home she ever lived in, having been born in Singapore and to explore the houses that once were service housing for RAF Seletar.

RAF Seletar is now an Aerospace Park and Civilian Airport found in the NE of Singapore but its origins date back to the 1920s. In 1928 it was predominantly designed by the Brit C E Wood and was opened in 1928 and soon became the largest RAF base in the Far East. The Malay word for wood (remember designer C E Wood) is Kayu and some say the road leading from the base Jalan Kayu was named after this person. Also the name Seleter is derived from the local inhabitants that lived along the mangrove shoreline of this area in the past. It also became Singapore's first international airport and remained so until Kallang Civilian Airport was opened in 1937.

The air base was home to flying boats and numerous planes and squadrons, too many for me to list here and saw various famous people apassing through or performing at the camp, from Amy Johnson in her famous Gypsy Moth en route to Australia and Charlie Chaplin amongst many others. As I said I'm not going to list all the planes and squadrons that were based out of here, but if you are interested look up the RAF Seletar website   http://www.rafseletar.org   If you were based here why not join and share your memories and who knows you may find lost friends.

The camp was abandoned early in 1942 when the Japanese bombed and then invaded Singapore. The Imperial Japanese Naval Air Service were based out of Seletar and renamed it Seretar Hikojo, they also built the current runway. Much of Selater was built by a female workforce nicknamed "Concrete Lizzies". The Japanese occupied the base from 1942-45 but after WWII the RAF took over again and it went through a very busy and important stage in its history. It was a strategic base throughout the Malayan Emergency 1948-60, the Korean War 1950-53 and the Indonesia Confrontation 1963-66, all that my late father was also involved with. Finally in March 1971 the British left and the Base was taken over by the then Singapore Air Defence Command, later renamed as the Republic of Singapore Air Force.

It is now a Civilian Air base with much of the old colonial bungalows and base buildings left unused. In 2007 plans were drawn up to upgrade and lengthen the runway. The part that is used as a civilian airbase has now been run by Changi Airport Group since 2009. The other part of the base is run by Jurong Town Corporation and is to become Seletar Aerospace Park. This is  due to open in 2018 however, there are already many Aerospace companies working from here.


But back to the the black and white colonial buildings which were my real interest on my visit. There were once 378 bungalows built in the 1920s and as you wander around, the road names take you back to England and London; Piccadilly Circus, Maida Vale, Old Birdcage Walk, Hyde Park Gate, Oxford St, Mornington Crescent, Lambeth Walk, Brompton Rd etc... I can only imagine what it must of been like for my friend and those others that grew up here, even now it is almost as if you have left Singapore as you walk around, so different from the built up, crowded, high rise homes that we are used to here on the island. Here you still have gardens, no high rise developments - yet... and the ability to breathe. It seems to be a prerequisite of living here now to at least have one dog, if not two! As we walked around we were greeted to various tonal barks and a few growls, along with much tail wagging. You certainly couldn't creep around these roads without the canine alarms heralding our presence!



Of the 378 bungalows around 130 have been rented out for residential use within the area now owned by the Aerospace Park. 32 Bungalows and 2 buildings on Park Lane and The Oval have been gazetted for conservation and proposals have been drawn up to rent out for schools, restaurants, offices and sports factitious. However its believed that many others will be demolished to make room for .... yes you've guessed it "redevelopment" It is however hoped that the ultimate feeling of this area will be kept as much as possible. I'm sure my friend and her family can see many changes, there is indeed a new road just across from her old home and diggers and construction are clearly evident around the area, however there is still a feeling of peace and freedom to roam and children to get out and play, which is reminiscent of our childhoods back in the UK. I truly hope this is not lost.




I've lived in RAF quarters in the UK and Germany when I first left home and I can honestly say that none were as a architecturally beautifully as these colonial black and whites, with there tall chimneys, high ceilings, verandas and open windows allowing the breeze to move through the building. Here's hoping that things don't change too quickly in this area, but I do feel somewhat positive for the foreseeable future.

We didn't walk around the empty, unused homes so the photos are of the clearly loved, lived in "black and whites"





Apparently Jesus lives here?!?!
My friends first home. The upstairs widows were once open with no glass or shutters to allow the air to circulate. 

True free range chickens :) 

Joss Stick Man and Funeral houses

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Tay Guan Heng (Joss sticks manufacturer)



Have you ever visited a Chinese Temple here in Singapore?  a Buddhist or Taoist celebration? Have you seen those large 4-5 feet coloured joss sticks burning outside? Have you every wondered about them? OK, I guess maybe many of you haven't thought much other than, they're unusual, big, interesting.... but you may be surprised to know that in the whole of Singapore there is just one tiny place that makes them. Tucked away in a non description industrial estate, in the middle of Singapore's heartland of Ang Mo Kio, amongst the car repairers, engineers and other such businesses, sits Tay Guan Heng (Joss Sticks Manufacturer) If you didn't know it was there it's highly unlikely you would come across it by chance.

I have been fortunate to visit a few times and each time Mr Tay has always been eager so show us his craft, to explain the history of the business, the families paperwork and visas, dating to when his family first came to Singapore. His father, Tay Yong Pah, set up the business and now it is run by his 2 sons, Amos and Stephen, and a couple of fellow craftsmen. Yes craftsmen, for these are indeed a work of art. Clearly passionate about his work he is more than happy to talk to you, a man that loves his craft.






The Joss sticks are made from a type of malleable putty, derived from the bark of the cinnamon tree, ground into a powder and then with simply water added, it becomes this dough that Mr Tay, his magical hands, and just a few simple household implements crafts into his joss sticks and figurines. He will show you how, in a matter of seconds, from a tiny nondescript blob of putty, he turns it into an arm, then a hand, a few more tweeks and fingers appear, so simple yet so clever.


The business was set up to make joss sticks and at one time these were as large as 20 feet. You can still see some of the monoliths standing in the corner of the unit. Nowadays however, these large joss sticks are not allowed to be burnt in Singapore and the average you will see will sit around 4-5 feet in height. The putty for these are made from a slightly courser cinnamon powder as this helps the sticks to burn slower and last longer. They can burn for up to several days. The Sticks are first formed and then later a decorative design is added on top of the plain sticks. These are often dragons but vary depending on which festival, celebration, birthday they are being created for.



To keep the business going they have diversified into decorations, figurines and also commissions. With Christmas around the corner his biggest business is that of making nativity scenes, gingerbread houses (a seemingly must buy for expats) and small Christmas tree decorations. He makes religious figurines and characters from Chinese mythology, anything you could wish for. All These products once molded are left to dry, sometimes up to month, although a fan helps the smaller pieces dry quicker. Once dry they can either be vanished to give a rich wood colour or in the case of the joss sticks painted in vibrant  colours; pinks, blues, yellows and greens. These articles may not be the cheapest products but when you think of the time, labour and love involved they are more than worth it. These will last for years and years and often become heirlooms.



Mr Tay will tell you that the business is struggling, that its a dying art, which indeed it is, however, with various TV clips, newspaper reports and visits from expats, along with the never ending Chinese celebrations, so long as we keep this up and there are people to take over this business I'm hopeful that this unique, in Singapore, business will continue to thrive.







Joss Stick man, aka Tay Guan Heng can be found at

4001 Ang Mo Kio Avenue 10,
#01-25
Singapore
569622

Facebook  https://www.facebook.com/TGHwoodclay


If this was of interest to you, when exiting the unit, turn left and walk a few units up and on the other side of the road is a joss paper product maker, in particular the immensely large and elaborate houses made for the Chinese funerals.

Associated Handicraft Co



Joss paper funeral houses

This is another small unit that you would easily miss, the family here do not speak English but are happy for you to come and watch. Amazing watching the dexterity when using feet and fingers they split the bamboo canes into small pieces and into strips for tying the canes together to form the structure of these houses.




The houses are easily 15 plus feet tall and even wider, they are then covered in brightly coloured joss paper, made from rice paper, to form rooms, walls and the roof of the house. Rooms will even have furniture inside and at the entrance door of the house will be "the accountant" to look after the deceased as they pass onto the afterlife.




Joss paper and papermache products are made to burn at funerals and other festivities (you probably have seen such items being burnt along side the grass verges in a street near you)

The houses made here are vast and are for the deceased to live in but take good time to make. Often when a person becomes seriously ill, family members will order these houses advance ready for the funeral.

4034 Ang Mo Kio Ave 10
#01-36
Singapore
569641







Dinosaurs in Singapore. Sungei Buloh

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Covering 130 hectares in the North West of Singapore, the wetland reserve of Sungei Buloh is a magical haven for wildlife and a place so removed from the norm of the modern, urban, concrete metropolis I've become used to and indeed love.

Originally just 87 hectares it was designated a nature park back in 1989, after much consultation with the UK's Wildfowl and Wetland Trust, maybe due to this, it feels similar to Slimbridge, just up from where I lived in the UK.  However in 2002 a larger area was added and it was renamed Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve and is now an important area for conservation and the stop off point for many thousands of migratory birds, some travelling as far as Siberia and Australia.


If you visit at present, 2 walk areas are closed for reconstruction leaving just the Mangrove Boardwalk (500m) and he larger Route 1 (5km) accessible, Routes 2 and 3 are closed. However come 6 Dec 2014 (now under 2 weeks away) a new extension will open to celebrate the Reserves official 21st birthday. New in the extension will be a Coastal Boardwalk and a Canopy walk with 6 regular guided walks available. I for one will certainly be back to explore further!


I have now visited twice, the first time we were literally tripping over Monitor Lizards and saw the largest ones that we've seen in Singapore, true dinosaurs. So laid back and lazy, sunning themselves in the heat and really in no hurry to move away from us, we were truly a hindrance to them. On our second visit yes we saw many but nothing on the scale of our first trip. I guess we were just very lucky. I make no apologises there are a lot of Monitor Lizard photos in the post!!





More amazingly on our first time we actually saw 3 crocodiles! Apart from zoos I had never seen a wild one before and was so excited. We saw 2 small ones swimming and flicking their tales close to the waters edge, but also a large one, sitting just under the water in the shallows. Apparently, according to some photographers we spoke to and a guide, low tide is the best time to spot both crocodiles and otters as the water is low and its easier for them to catch fish then. Also a guide told us you can usually spot a very large crocodile in the river as you cross over the first bridge when leaving the visitors centre to enter into the reserve. These photographers showed us some stunning professional photos they had taken of the crocodiles and otters. Magnificent photos, what I would give to be able to take shots like those they showed us.

look carefully and you can see Mr Croc watching us
The view from the fruit bridge, where crocodiles are regularly spotted.
The Reserve is awash to with flora and fauna, freshwater and seawater inhabits, mangrove dwellers and much more. You will most definitely see crabs and mud skippers, varying in size enormously. The rivers and lakes are full of fish and you will see them jumping out of the water. Just two of the fish that can be found there are milk fish and salmon. Salmon being a popular food treat for the smooth coated otters and their families. Sadly neither visits have we seen these, apart from the photos shown by our photographers friends, along with sea eagles they were "shooting" that day.

large Mud Skipper
crabs
Huge ant I nearly rested my arm on to take a photo!

As you walk around you will come across various hides, that give you a change to see the migratory birds, as well as the residents from a hidden views. Sorry I'm not up on my birds so I can't tell you what we were looking at apart from various herons, bitterns, kingfishers, water hens and lots of wading birds.




Water Hen
Theres also a tower that you can climb to get a clear view of how large the wetland area is.



You will also see spiders, changeable lizards, caterpillars, ants and many moths and butterflies, apparently water snakes, we did see a quick glimpse of a Paradise Tree snake. OHHH and not forgetting mosquito's! On our first visit their were very few the second time even though we were well covered up and sprayed copiously we were bitten to death!! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!! :)

Paradise Tree Snake
A laid back relaxed Changeable lizard


I'd certainly recommend this place, not only if you are interested in birds and wildlife, but just a quiet haven away from the hustle of city life. To get there you can catch bus 925 from Kranji MRT Mon - Sat this will drop you at Kanji Reservoir Park which means a walk of approx 1 mile along the road to the entrance, passing the Crocodile Farm, although you can also walk through Kranji Nature Trail as well, a walk of just 2 km https://www.sbwr.org.sg/downloads/KNTbrochure.pdf. On Sundays and Public Holidays the 925 will take you to the entrance to the Reserve. Alternatively for $3 each way you can catch the Kranji Express, a mini bus that also leaves from Kranji MRT (make sure you check its timetable).  I did like the comment of the photographer we met, he said he always travelled by BMW - no he doesn't have a car, he travels by B (bus) M (MRT) W (walk) I will try and remember this :)




Sungei Buloh
301 Neo Tiew Crescent
Singapore 718925
Mondays - Saturdays 07:30 - 19:00
Sundays and Public Holidays 07:00-19:00
https://www.sbwr.org.sg


Male Praying Mantis

Grasshopper
Cicada

Map of the Reserve can be found here.  http://www.nparks.gov.sg/cms/docs/Sungei_Buloh_Wetland_Reserve_eGuide_LRes.pdf

Kranji Express Timetable
http://www.kranjicountryside.com/kranji_express_schedule.html






Look carefully and you will see there are 2 monitors here having a romantic moment. I think we will leave them to their privacy! 

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