Hong Kong. A holiday from my "holiday" (Part 1. Kowloon)

January 20, 2014, 12:37 am

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I've just come back from my first ever trip to Hong Kong, a place I never expected to visit in my lifetime but, now with this new life of my mine I am fortunate to have the opportunities to visit countries I'd only thought I would ever read about. Hubby had been a number of times, with his brother once living and working there, and now through his own work. Thanks to another business trip I was able to "tag" along with him, for the first time on a business trip, also making it an affordable few days.

Now everyone kept telling me "you'll love the place" and indeed hubby does, he kept saying "you can see why I love it now?" Did I love it? .... Hmmm.... I don't think I could go that far. Now I maybe loving life in "The City within a garden" that is Singapore, but at heart I'm a country girl. Did I have a wonderful time?  Yes. Am I glad I visited? God yes. Could I live there?   I very much doubt it, although saying that on Sunday afternoon we visited Stanley crossing up over the mountain, driving through uninterrupted "jungle" down to a coastal bay that I didn't know existed in Hong Kong. Being winter it was reasonably quiet even in the famous Stanley Street Market. This for me was a peaceful quiet haven and a much needed break from the manic, enclosed roads of the rest of the island and Kowloon over on the mainland. However unless we come into money from some unknown millionaire, long lost, unheard of relative I doubt we could afford to live there!

What are my overall perceptions of Hong Kong.

Cons 
Crazy, Manic, loud, smelly drains!! Tailors constantly accosting you for suits, handbags, even watches (especially Nathan Road in Kowloon) enclosed and claustrophobic, full of smokers.

Pros
Brilliant neon lights, temples full of incense burning, vibrant shrines, bustling food markets full of vegetables, meat and fish and somethings I have no idea what they were! Plus street markets selling everything you want and those you didn't even know you wanted! Calming gardens, museums, bamboo scaffolding everywhere, surely more environmentally friendly the western metal poles, although I guess bamboo is not so readily available there. Great new and interesting food although most restaurants weren't in English so we weren't sure what everything was!

So for me Hong Kong is a place of contradictions, one minute I did love it the next, I felt claustrophobic and wanted to escape. I am so pleased to have been and yes I would go back, especially if we visited places at a slower pace, rather than trying to cram everything into a few short days. Although with the wealth of other "yet to visit" countries on my list, this will mean they will get first priority. I may not have fell in love with the place from the first, as I did setting foot in Simgapore (something that still surprises me) but it was great and may well be a slow burner for this old "country girl" If you're given the opportunity I would certainly recommend it to anyone.

Kowloon

The first 2 days we spent in Kowloon, over on the mainland, just off the busy shopping thoroughfare that is Nathan Road. Hubby had to work so I was left to explore on my own. This would of been something I would of been terrified of doing just a year ago, but thanks to Singapore's "soft Asian landing" it wasn't so daunting and I was able to navigate around the MTR (trains) using their Octopus (ezlink, oyster) preloaded cards and the general feel of the place was much more normal than if I had come straight from the UK.

Day 1.
Anyway Lonely Planet guide book in hand Day 1. I set off walking north along Nathan Road to almost the end, turning left and first visited the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden. Although the stalls are open all days by the time I arrived most "uncles" had covered over their bird cages and fewer were left, so I can only imagine the melodies I would have heard if I'd arrived earlier. It was clearly a male pastime and not only was I the only woman there I was the only foreigner too! - although I didn't feel in the least bit uncomfortable. What do I think about the "sport" of keeping birds in cages and bringing them out in the morning to hear them sing? I still feel it is strange but having seen it so often in SG I guess I'm becoming slightly anesthetized to it. The birds are certainly cared and loved by their "uncles". Amongst the Bird Park were stalls selling live food, grasshoppers in sacks that are fed to their birds by chopsticks, new birds and cages upon cages, with several older uncles sitting there mending them, a peaceful sight. Although the place was full of bird song and movement there was an overall feeling of timelessness and it was very relaxing. I have been looking for a birdcage as an ornament for the house and if only I could of squeezed one into a suitcase I would of bought one as they were so much cheeper than in SG. I wouldn't of filled it with a bird though!!

Walking down the slope exiting the Bird park I passed along Flower Market Road. Think of a flower and they probably had it. Also with Chinese New Year fast approaching they had much bamboo, and other traditional  chinese New Year floral displays.

After getting lost several times I passed through Tung Choi St full of fish shops - no, not the type to eat but to put in aquariums, a big pastime in Hong Kong as in China, then onto Tung Choi St market  "ladies market" (which was closing up!!) crossing over Nathan Road and getting lost again around Mong Kok (the most densely populated place on earth according to the guide book) and finding myself by the corner of Reclamation St with the  Yau Ma Tei Theatre (two historic buildings that have been converted into a centre for Cantonese opera) on one side and the Wholesale Fruit Market on the other, which was founded in 1913. Meandering around the back streets by Reclamation St, Shanghai St and along the other streets that all became one, with the local street markets in place finally surfacing in Temple St, famous for the night market we would investigate later. The markets as usual were full of everything, clothes, utensils, gifts and tourist tat, then food stalls, fruit and veg stalls, flanked either side by the permanent shops selling wet fish, fresh meat and restaurants.

Yau Ma Tei Theatre

Wholesale fruit and veg Market Reclamation St

Emerging from the labyrinths of stalls and little streets I arrived at the 19th century Tin Hau Temple (dedicated to the goddess of the sea) - wow what can I say, except its easy to see why its one of Hong Kongs' most famous temples. The incense burning with the cylindrical cone burners was something I had never experienced before. The smoke rising was almost blinding but something I love. As ever it was full of worshippers lighting their sticks and burnings papers. There's something that touches me about these temples so much more that the Anglican churches of the West. I am so much more moved, if only I understood it more. In the evening outside the temple the public square is home to makeshift stalls of fortunetellers.

In the evening the Temple is edged by fortune tellers

Next stop I made a very quick look at the Jade Market but as I was accosted at every footstep I basically went in one door and out the next. If I had wanted to buy something yes I would have stayed longer.

Back onto Nathan Road and I walked south passing 2 of Kowloon oldest colonial buildings the Kowloon British School and next door St Andrews Church, and passed The Rosary Church, Kowloons' oldest Catholic church and then St Marys Canossian College built around 1900.

St Andrews church

Kowloon British School

The Rosary Church

St Marys Canossian College

I then continued down to the Hong Kong Harbour, past the famous Peninsular Hotel, which I'm afraid looked slightly austere and drab (maybe in the Summer it would look softer) Down onto the Promenade and I walked along the Avenue of Stars. Hong Kongs version of Hollywoods.  Most of the actors I hadn't heard of although I did find Jackie chan and Jet Li. Coming to one end surrounded by people is a statue of Bruce Lee. Now I'm afraid I'm not a fan of Kung Fu films but clearly many are, there were people of all ages, sexes and nationalities posing in various positions to have their photo taken by this state. I found this quite amusing!

That evening hubby returned from work and we visited Temple Street Night Market which was only a five minute walk from the hotel. I will let the photos speak for it. Definitely a "must visit" place.

huge queue for something..... turned out it was fish and chips!!

Day 2.
After a lazy morning in the hotel I set off on the MTR to vista Nan Lian Garden and Chi Lin Nunnery, alighting at Diamond Hill Station. So peaceful and tranquil were the gardens I felt very emotional, and have to admit to having "a moment" The gardens were everything I had imagined a chinese garden to be, with the wooden buildings and red painted bridges over koi carp ponds, with bonsai trees and bushes, everything immaculately manicured and positioned. The nunnery was again so calm, however I was glad it was winter as if it had been full of visitors and hot it wouldn't have been so relaxing and calming. I must have stayed in the gardens and nunnery for more than 2 hours.

One stop down from Diamond Hill was Wong Tai Sin station, named after the Taosist Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple dedicated to the shepherd healer Wong Tai Sin, who supposedly transformed sheep from boulders and knew how to make a potion that would cure all illnesses (understandably explaining why this is such a popular temple). This was a huge expanse of buildings and very very busy. I am led to believe that as its coming up to chinese New Year this is one of its busiest times. The noise when you enter the main courtyard was deafening, and at first I couldn't place what it was. It was coming from people shaking fortune sticks. On the outside of the complex are rows upon rows of fortunetellers that will interpret what your shaken stick will foretell for your future. Again the smoke rising up was something you had to see to appreciate. The bright colour of the painted building with lanterns, drums and statues was breathtaking.

At the back of the main temple was the  Good Wish Garden, full of pavilions, bridges and ponds. This was a much needed oasis of calm after the Temple and I sat there for a while enjoying the peace.

Back onto the train I travelled down to the bottom of Kowloon intending to visited the Hong Kong Museum of History. I got off the MTR where the guide book said but this was a mistake, after wandering around trying to get my bearings it was then almost 3/4 hours walk to the musuem - I was beginning to flag and had a headache!! (note to visitors I would suggest Jordan station would be better than Tsim Sha Tsui as the guide book states).

The musuem is only HK$10 entry (S$1.60, 80p UK) and is certainly worth the visit. It starts from the how the island was formed geologically and then takes you through to the different people, festivals, folk lore, opium wars and onto the handing over to China in 1997, as the name says the History of Hong Kong. If I hadn't been so tired by then I would of stayed and appreciated it more, but it is certainly worth a trip. Opposite the museum is the Science museum (HK$25) which is currently showing a dinosaur exhibition. As it was late afternoon I gave this a miss and dragged my tired bones back to the hotel to wait for hubby to return from work so we could move onto Hong Kong island and our next hotel.

To follow our few days over on Hong Kong island please read my next post!
http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2014/01/hong-kong-holiday-from-my-part-2-hong.html

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Temples of Cambodia

May 23, 2014, 2:05 am

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Its been a couple of weeks now since we returned from Siem Reap, Cambodia and we still cant believe we've actually visited Cambodia, yes Cambodia, We've been to Cambodia!!! Growing up I probably hadn't even really heard of the country and then as a teenager it was a place of mystery and temples, a place you never got to visit. You heard of some people visiting in their gap year or taking a year off to travel, not that any of my friends did any of this. Cambodia was just a place I would read about and never, never, ever in a million years dreamt I would one day visit!

OK we may have gone to the "tourist capital" of Siem Reap but that's only become so because of its proximity to the temples, being just a few km away from the centre and, to be honest it wasn't as touristy as I expected. In another blog post I will speak a little about the people and feeling of the small part of the country but this post is dedicated to the temples, after all that was the reason we made the trip in the first place.

Angkor Wat

Now I don't want this to sound like a piece from Wikipedeia or some long drawn out monotonous guide book and we certainly didn't see all the temples in any stretch of the imagination, however I will give a quick run down on the temples we did visit over our 3 day visit. 

To visit the temples in the Park you must purchase a pass either a 1 day, 3 day or 7 day pass. We opted for the 3 day at US$40 per person.

I make no apologises this is a long post, but how could I cover so much history in any other way..........

Day 1 

Dawn breaking over Angkor Wat

Of course you cant go to visit without trying to experience the sunrise at Angkor Wat. So 4am saw us dragging our nodding, sleep filled selves out of bed and into a tuk tuk for the 15min ride to Angkor Wat (City Temple) along with the many other 100s of people doing so as well! It was certainly worth doing, the sunrise was great but not as spectacular as I hoped for but I guess it all depends on the time of year and that days weather. 

We weren't alone to see the sunrise!!!

I am glad we did a return visit to fully explore this the largest religious monument in the world. It was originally Hindu and subsequently Buddhist. Built in the 12th century for the Khmer King Suryavarman II  and dedicated to Vishnu and aligned unusually to the West, it was not destroyed during the Khmer Rouge time and has become the symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its money and National Flag and of course has become the biggest tourist draw. We revisited and walked along the outer galleries and marvelled at the bas reliefs. More information can be found here http://www.angkorguide.net/en/temples/temples-in-angkor/angkor_wat/angkor-wat-gallery-of-bas-reliefs.html

One of the hundreds of the bas reliefs. I could fill a complete blog post just on these alone!

Do you get the feeling thousands of people have passed by here and rubbed a certain part of this females body!

From here we moved onto what is one of my favourite of all the temples I saw Ta Prohm (originally called Rajavihava and built in 12th and 13th centuries it was built as a monastery and university) What makes this a magical place for me and the many thousand others visitors is that nature has been left to take over since it was abandoned in the 17th century, until conservation works in the 21st century. Indeed the temple itself seems to have merged with the jungle with the fascinating trees, roots, trunks and branches becoming one with the building. In places its the trees that are holding the building together. There is almost another world feeling about the place, magical and mystical a place of fairy tales and childhood stories.

Yes that is a tree growing out of the roof!

is it a building? is it a tree?

Banteay Kdai (City of Chambers or Citadel of Monks) was built in 12th and 13th centuries as a Buddhist monastery. In very poor condition there are thousand upon thousands of stone blocks littering the ground,with as many again stacked up in great mounds waiting for those restoring to put back together this giant jigsaw puzzle of building blocks.

Across the road from the East exit of Banteay Kdai, is Srah Srang a 10th century baray or reservoir believed to be a Royal bathing pool.

Final stop for the day was the 5 red bricked towers of the 10th century Hindu temple of Prasavat Kravan on the southern side of Srah Srang and dedicated to Vishnu. Inside the unusual brick towers are bas reliefs of Vishnu and Lakshmi

Day 2.

Day 2 arrived but we didn't have a pre dawn start and set out at a much more respectful 09:30 This day saw us head to the last capital city of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom (Great City) Within this city are numerous other temples and the gateways into the city are something out of a history book. Although established in the 12th century many of the temples predate this which shows the area was in use as a major site well beforehand. Each gateway and bridge into Angkor Thom is guarded by the 7 headed Naga (serpent). On the left hand side of the Naga bridge,as you walk towards the entrance, Gods are seen holding the Naga and on the other right hand side the figures are depicting demons.

Gods holding the Naga (serpent)

What remains of the Nagas body being held by the gods

Demons on the right hand side holding the Naga

First stop was the many faced temple of Bayon. If you every felt you were being watched - you are!!! Originally built in the late 12th century by a Buddhist king it was later modified by a number of Hindus kings. This is something we found throughout our visit and at first struggled to get our heads around, this melding of Buddhist and Hindu culture. A visit on our last day to the Angkor National Museum helped us make sense of the history. I would certainly recommend it as a place to visit, probably at the start of your trip rather than on your last day like us -ooops! In total there are supposedly 216 giant faces (someone had too much time on their hands!) adorning this temple and they are believed to be that of the first king who built it, Jayavarman VII. In reality an amazing, slightly bizarre,labyrinthine and cluttered temple.

We walked onto Baphuon next. This is a three tiered 11th century Hindu temple although it later converted to a Buddhist one! It originally stood around 150 meters tall and I amazed myself but actually climbing up the steep wooden steps all the way to the top, not bad for someone frightened of heights, and even more amazing I got down in one piece too :) Surrounding the temple are blocks upon blocks of stone from this temple, as far as your eye can see disappearing into the jungle are blocks of stones, like most of the Temples in the area it had been left to the ravages of time and the jungle until the 20th century. The Baphuon restoration started before the Khmer Rouge era, however the people who had started work on its restoration, along with the plans were lost during this turbulent time in history, so much is incapable of being put back together without pure guesswork. As we exited Baphuon at the rear we looked at the undulating strange back of the temple so different from the other 3 sides and suddenly realised what we were looking at was a reclining Buddha making up the whole side of this temple - utterly amazing and to think how this was constructed in the 11th century.

Can you spot the reclining Buddha making up the back wall of Baphuon?

We passed by, but didn't climb, the 3 sided pyramid shaped,late 10th century Hindu temple of Phimeanakas (love the sound of that word) Phimeanakas, yes I said it again! means celestial temple and it certainly points upwards to the heavens. To be honest we were melting a tad now in the severe heat.

Back to the tuk tuk we walked across the 13th century Terrace of the Leper King named after the Hindu god of death Yama who's statue is at this site. The statue was marked and discoloured and had the appearance of someone with leprosy hence Leper King. At the far end of the Leper King terrace is another older 12th century terrace, that of the Elephants Terrace. As you would imagine it is decorated in hundreds of elephants. This terrace was used as viewing platform for royal and public festivities.

As we left these temples behind our next stop was Preah Khan (Royal Sword) The gateway into here was stunning in itself....

Local children playing in the puddle at the entrance to Preah Khan

More demons

If you ever get a chance to visit the temples this Preah Khan must be near the top of those to visit. Unlike many of the tall temples we had just visited this is a flat 12th century Buddhist temple with later Hindu additions. At one time there were 430 deities on this site and it was used as a city, temple and university. Like Ta Prohm it had been left to the jungle and almost completely destroyed, with the building becoming one with the trees. It is now managed by the World Monuments fund with careful restoration and maintenance taking place.

A lingam - representing a male sexual organ and a yoni, the females. The Lingam is supposed to be the origin of the western maypoles?!?

From here we walked across the Preah Khan Baray (reservoir) to Neak Preah (The entwined serpents) a Buddhist temple built on an artificial island in the middle of the baray. Representing the mythical Himalayan lake that cures all illnesses. It is surrounded by 4 pools representing water, earth, fire and wind, guarded over by an Elephant, Bull, Horse and Lion, the statue of the horse can still be seen. Much of this site is still being dug out of the encroaching jungle. This was a very tranquil place - until the coach full of Korean tourists arrived with their loud voices shouting across the lake hmmmm

The horse is the only statue left of the four that guarded over the four pools. There were once also an elephant, bull and lion as well representing Earth, Fire, Water and Wind

Final stop for day 2 was Ta Som, a relatively small 12th century Buddhist temple. Again you will see faces like those adorning Bayon, you will also cross over the remains of the moat flanked by the ever present Naga and Garudas. Garudas are mythical human-like birds that are found in both Buddhist and Hindu cultures.

It almost looks like if you were to sneeze this would come tumbling down

Day 3.

Our final day for viewing these magical temples. We had seen many but would be leaving with still many more to discover, certainly making a very strong argument for another return trip. This day we went slightly further a field as we set out in the opposite direction to Angkor Wat and the other temples to visit the Roluos group, around 13km from Siem Reap, quite a trip in our little tuk tuk with our nether regions now slipping between numbness and pain from the jolting, but all good fun though! The Roluos group are some of the oldest having been built at the start of the Khmer Empire around the 9th century.

The first of the Roluos group is Bakong the first "temple mountain" made from sandstone and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Bakong was the main temple in the capital city of the ancient city of Hariharalaya before it later moved to Angkor. A stunning entrance to this temple as you walk over a flower flanked water filled moat. Here there is a modern Buddhist temple and school.

This sight made my day :)

idyllic

Preah Ko (sacred bull) This was the first of the temples to be built in Hariharalaya in 879 and is a Hindu temple. It is called Preah Ko, Sacred Bull, after the 3 statues facing the temples of Nandi, a white bull who the Hindu god Shiva rode. As with the other temples here in the Rulous group it was quiet, slightly away from the tourist masses and walking between the 6 brick towers of this temple you could almost feel the history and past pulsating from the buildings. I was almost waiting for a Khmer king to appear in one of the doorways.

Nandi the white bull who Shiva rode.

A very mystical place, with a strange presence about the place.

The last of the Roluos group was Lolei Wat. It is made up of four brick towers that were once positioned on an island. The front 2 towers were male and the back female, they represent the family of the Khmer king Yasovarman I, his parents and grand parents. These brick towers are highly decorated, but sadly in poor repair, but what can you expect after such a long period of time. Surrounding the temple are a Buddhist monastery and school.

So that was our whirlwind 3 day tour of the major temples. What an experience, what a dream come true. To be honest after 3 days we were slightly templed out, but that doesn't stop me from wanting to make a return visit/visits and explore farther a field. There's just to much to see and learn and so little time, but I'll have a damn good go!

I hope you enjoy the photos and quick description of them, I'm hoping it didn't sound to guide bookish. If you're interested in any of the temples there is copious information on each on the Internet, you could make it your life's work to learn about them. We visited so many and there was so much history and information it was quite difficult to get the balance right between getting the basic information over without going overkill. 

The restored head of the seven headed Naga outside the entrance at Angkor Wat.

Project World Colours - June 2014

June 4, 2014, 2:39 am

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BLUE

June 2014

I've been looking forward to this colour coming up. What does blue always remind me of? That is easy...... Where does it send me in my imagination when I think of blue... No contest... Blue for me epitomises Cornwall. Nothing for me, no matter where I may be, yes and that includes Singapore, which everyone knows I'm totally in love with, nothing for me compares to the brilliant blue of Cornwall. The colour just sings out to me. To stand on top of the North Cornish Cliff Path on a brilliant clear sunny day is just about heaven. Talking about heaven, when I pop off this is where I want to be, I even want a chair with my name on!! naff maybe but I want always be there looking out on that blue :)

The only issue I had was choosing which of my photos to add ......

The other posts from Project World Colours can be found here  http://projectworldcolors.com

Araw ng Kalayaan

June 3, 2014, 1:35 am

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Philippines Independence Day

12 June 

To be honest this is a public holiday that I didn't even know existed until last week. To be honest who could blame me? coming from the UK, living in Singapore for just over a year I have really only concentrated on finding out about my new home with a few delves into our holiday destinations. 

Last Monday though saw myself and my friend at our regular Monday morning lectures at the Asian Civilisation Museum held by the Friends of the Museum. If you've never been it's a great start to the week, nothing to high brow and we usually learn something and it's free too - always a good thing in my book. You can find more about this here   http://www.fom.sg/event_mml.html  I would also highly recommend anyone becoming a friend of the museum. For just S$60 a year you will gain free entry for you and one other to the all the National Heritage Boards museums at great bargain with so many museums, changes of exhibitions and a great place to take family and fiends when they come to stay. To find out all you need about joining just look here. http://www.fom.sg 

Although the lectures are taking a summer break now until 22 September when they'll be back and held at the National Museum. 22 SEPTEMBER!!! WHAT AM I GOING TO DO UNTIL THEN! 

Don't worry I've plenty planned!

Anyway I digress what's this got to do with the Philippines Independence Day, Araw ng kalayaan? Well the lecture this Monday was entitled Indak at Habi (The Philippines through dance and fabric) I'm not writing a post on this in itself but I am including a few photos my friend took of the different costumes. It has had the effect though to make me find out about their Independence Day. For myself I preferred the tribal outfits that were on display. Currently I'm reading about the Batak sculpture from a region in Indonesia, looks like I may have some new areas to read about when that is finished - from Indonesia to the Philippines :)

2014 sees the country mark 116 years since they gained independence from Spain on 12 June 1898 and is a public holiday in the Philippines.

More information can be found here  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Independence_Day_(Philippines) 

With so many Filipinos working in Singapore I hope some will get to celebrate...

Balik Pulau - Exhibition

June 10, 2014, 11:54 pm

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The latest free exhibition at the National Museum of Singapore is called Balik Pulau and I visited this morning.

Balik Pulau means "back to the island" in Malay. This small exhibition explains that there were, until quite recently, 70 islands making up Singapore with many being populated with thriving communities, schools and a long standing traditional way of life. However with land reclamation and various other issues these island people were moved onto the mainland, were separated from their fellow islanders and their history and way of life has slowly seeped away. Although a small exhibition it has been laid out very well with "islands" as information stands on each particular island. Each island has a video link as well as a booklet with photos and brief history of the events of each "island"

I probably spent 45 mins here viewing this and would recommend it to anyone, especially if they are visiting the museum anyway - pop in. 

It would have been good if they were able to print a booklet with the history of the islands, as although I read all about them it would be good to have something to refer to and be able to learn more about these lost islands.

Where once there were 70 islands there are now 63. A list of these can be found here. https://sg.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090127075756AAOmHFM  It certainly made me want to investigate further.

The exhibition runs from 10 June 2014 - 10 Aug 2014
Opening hours : 10:00 - 18:00
National Museum of Singapore
93 Stamford Road S(178897)
Tel:(+65) 6332 3659 / (+65) 6332 5642

More information on this exhibition can be found here along with others http://www.nationalmuseum.sg/NMSPortal/Exhibitions?_afrLoop=916301492692241&_afrWindowMode=0&_afrWindowId=kaadq7zrg_1#%40%3F_afrWindowId%3Dkaadq7zrg_1%26_afrL

Jian Mian Da Ren Festivities (Jin Dong Fu)

June 19, 2014, 12:23 am

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In the past week I have been very fortunate to experience, with a friend, a local Taoist festival. This is not a tourist attraction, in fact on the 2 days we visited we only saw one other westerner. I feel really privileged to have experienced this spectacle, and what a spectacle it was.
We first heard about these celebrations via Facebook when reading about local heritage.

https://www.facebook.com/events/314163612074654/?fref=ts

https://www.facebook.com/jin.dongfu?fref=ts

Ok so it was all in mandarin apart from the dates and times, but after looking at the previous years photos and realising that it was really "just up the road" from me, we were hooked. Indeed my friend even asked the Facebook page host to translate the events into English so we could see what was in store for us (google translate was no use!!!)

Jin Dong Fu is a Taoist temple at Geylang, Lorong 3. They hold twice yearly celebrations in honour of its Deities. This one in June is in honour of Jin Mian Da Ren (The Golden Face Lord/ Quing Mian Da Ren). We were surprised at how large the venue was and the vast array of different gods and Deities that were attending his celebrations. I don't think I have seen so many altogether before and many were extremely large. I were able to spot the Monkey God, the Deities of the Sea, Netherworld and the heavenly Deities. After speaking to one of the ever helpful organisers she explained that there is much fund raising for the event and all the Deities have been donated by the devotees. It was a massive onslaught of colour for the eyes (and camera) to take in. As explained by another devotee who took an important part in many of the celebrations. He appeared to centre place in those using the spirit whip and in the rituals which took place before the entrance of the spirit medium. He explained that  Jin Mian Da Ren has pride of place at one end of the large tent  (For any Taoists that may be reading this I apologise now for anything I may have got incorrect or the poor way I am probably explaining it, but in my defense I don't speak Chinese!!) It is like an army with 5 camps situated around Jin Mian Da Ren in the north, south, east, west and central to protect the temple (or in this case the marquee) He also explained that the Deities had all come to help celebrate Jin Mian Da Rens event. As its such a big occasion the temple celebrates in a large marquee away from the temple and this year it was held in the field just in front of Eunos MRT station.

Jin Dong Fu temple is also known as Golden Phoenix Temple and is was first established in Geylang in 1966 dedicated to the Hokkien deity Jin Mian Da Ren. In this year the deity instructed his followers that he wanted a medium to speak through. A ceremony took place and in 1966 Mr Chew Eng Hwee was chosen as the spirit medium and is still there to this day. Since Jin Mian Da Ren arrived from China through joss ash, Singapore has grown and prospered and he is seen as having much to do with this. It was good to see, that unlike some ceremonies we have witnessed, along with the older generations there were equal numbers of young devotees.

The list of events for this celebration were as follows
Celebrations of Jin Dong Fu
金洞府四十四周年纪念与本壇恩主金面大人千秋

11/6/14 8pm 金面大人安壇 (Setting up prayer space)
11/6/14 12midnight 请天公 (Invite Jade Emperor)
12/6/14 2pm 善才童子奉送天公回天庭 (Sending off Jade Emperor)
12/6/14 715pm 天鹰龙狮学院呈现LED龙狮表演 (Lion & Dragon Dance performance)
12/6/14 8pm 善才童子带领众善信过平安桥 (Crossing the "Ping-An" (peace) Bridge
13/6/14 730pm 平安福宴 (Grand Dinner)
14/6/14 1pm 金面大人为众善信补运 (Enhancing of Luck)
15/6/14 9am 金面大人聖驾出巡 (Procession)
17/6/14 9pm 金面大人奉送众神回天庭 (Sending off Deities)
祝大家興旺發啊!

My friend and I were lucky to experience The Sending off of the Jade Emperor on Thursday afternoon and then on Sunday the Procession.

Sending off of the Jade Emperor.

We arrived just before 2pm but nothing seemed to be happening so we spent an extremely hot but interesting hour taking in the sights and colours of all the deities, as mentioned above there was a vast array of them and this event is known in Singapore for all the Taoist Deities, truly truly stunning. In a separate tent to the side of the main one was a Chinese opera stage and we gratefully sat on a chair for a while listening to the opera. It always amazes me that noone listens, but I understand they are not performing to the public but for the gods who are listening.

We then witnessed the ceremony where the medium (Chew Eng Hwee) arrived and we watched as he entered into a trance through much head shaking and upper body writhing. He had joss sticks and burning paper brushed against his body. Throughout this there were gongs and drums being played and those with spirit whips used them with great accuracy.  

A short ceremony took place with what appeared to be some prayers (possibly) before the Jade Emperor was placed in his incredibly heavy, sedan chair before we witnessed (as in the Pulau Ubin celebration http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2014/05/pulau-ubin-tua-pek-kong-chinese-opera.html  ) the very fit devotees picking up the chair and preceded in twisting it back and forth and from side to side. They must be incredibly strong as you can see the bars bending under the weight, the whole thing is built of wood with the Deity only adding to this. 

From here the Deity went around the marquee to each of the camps and then outside where he was "sent off" by the burning of a paper house (I believe that was what it was). The procession then circled the burning offering before reentering the tent.

We were the only "foreigners" there during this time and we felt slightly daunted by what was happening and not fully understanding everything, we were also careful not to intrude on the devotees and the celebrations. We didn't want to seem as tourists and this certainly wasn't a tourist attraction, we just want to experience as much of the culture and spectacles that take place in our "all to temporary home" and want to grasp every opportunity that arises. However people couldn't of been more helpful trying to explain what was happening, pushing us to the front to see and take photos. Thanks to this generosity of information we were persuaded to come back on Sunday morning to experience the procession. Indeed a couple of friendly "uncles" tried to get us on the list for the coach on Sunday to follow the procession around the island. We were told to come back on Sunday.

The Procession

We arrived bright and early for a 09:00 start but in fact the actual procession didn't start for a further 1 1/2 hours. Although we were told we could go on the coach we were both really nervous and felt that we would be intruding on the true devotees, so decided we would just watch the ceremony before the procession left and then return home (after all our husbands were expecting us home lunchtime.....how wrong they and us turned out to be!!!)

Throughout the preceedings there was much music being played and then the medium entered again, to the banging of drums and gongs (the noise was deafening) this time however he was dressed in gold (I am asumming as the Gold faced God/Jian Mian Da Ren- wheres as Thursday I think he was probably the Jade Emperor?) a similar ritual/performance ensued, as of Thursday, before we all went outside to welcome the floats which carried Lions, Dragons, Fish and butterflies (I have never seen fish and butterflies  before) and people from a boat. From the beginning we had a very friendly uncle who made it his mission of the day to make sure we experienced everything, moving us from one place to another so we didn't miss anything. He and another uncle, that spoke to us Thursday about the coach, moved us to the list where we put our names down, it felt rude not to, but what had we let ourselves in for!! We were told the procession would visit several places across the island before returning around 9-10 at night!!!!!!!!!! we were kindly told we could leave at anytime.

Each of the "dancers" left their floats and performed in front of the marquee before entering it and visiting each of the camps and performing in the centre before exiting back to their float. Woohoo! I got to experience yet another lion and dragon dance and there was me thinking last Chinese New Year I would never see one!! After each had left each God from each individual camp was brought out in their highly decorated and ornate heavy sedan chairs, as before each were swung from side to side and back and forth in the marquee before they left for their decorated floats. Now was the time for Jian Mian Da Ren to do the same. He rocked and writhed, preparing to sit in his sedan chair, this was the largest and most ornate of them all, and after much a toodoo he sat upon this. The arms and seat made up of sharp blades resembling skate blades (we had watched as they were sharpened on the Thursday) and he too left for his float.

Note the blades on the arms and seat base and also where the feet will be positioned.

As we were waiting for the coach, a kindly man came up and asked if I was Bridget? It turned out he was the gent whos Facebook page and our correspondence started our travels here. Lovely of him to introduce himself and as with the others very friendly and informative. I guess it wasnt difficult to guess who we were as there was just one other western gent at this event. We were aware that we were getting talked about and people were taking snaps of us!! Our Expat friends think we're slightly crazy and I guess these devotees thought so too, but hey look what we've experienced!

We got on the bus and everything was explained in Chinese and then for "the ladies" repeated in English! Everyone was most concerned we drank lots of water!

We were off! no idea where to or what was going to happen, but into the unknown we went.......
First stop an HDB in Tampines literally just past where my friend lives. There was an altar full of offerings and joss sticks. We assumed the floats would come along do their performance and then off to the next. However what we weren't expecting was the entrance of five Taoist warriors. OH WOW! what a sight, stunning, completely blown away and very frightening! They performed what appeared to be a ritualist fight for probably 10 minutes or so. I had never seen anything like this and I will never forget it :)

Indeed each of the floats came and each and performed in front of the altar, the Lions, Dragons, Butterflies, and gods in their sedan chairs and finally Jin Mian Da Ren. He appeared to bless a number of devotees and stamped the back of their clothes afterwards. A totally unexpected and slightly surreal experience, this is something thats not written in "places to visit/things to see" we felt truly honoured to be here watching it take place.

We climbed back onto the coach and traveled into the unknown again, this time heading to the NW of the island to Sengkang (truthfully a large area but I had never heard of it before) Next stop we were told was a temple. But not just any temple this is indeed 4 four temples under one roof! Here sits 3 Taoist and one Buddhist temple, joined together since 2006 when they each had to relocate and find new premises. Well this was another unexpected turn of events and woohoo another temple/s to explore. Again we were greeted by very friendly devotees who were most intent on showing us each part of the temple, they didn't want us to miss anything. I won't spend too much time on this complex as I will write separately about this on another post. However just to say as we were leaving to go back to our group one elderly gent came up to us and was most concerned that we should go down a set of stairs...why? anyway we followed him and entered the 10 courts of Hell!! Basically telling the same story as does HawPar Villa http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2013/11/haw-par-villa-and-ten-courts-of-hell.html  This one however, although still telling of the dire punishments that would be meted out to you when you were judged upon your death, this one was less frightening, in fact it was quite "bling" the statues were all lit up in neon blue lights with some even flashing. Another surreal experience. The uncle had worked here for over 20 years and was in charge of the english translation. 

The rather bling 10 courts of Hell.

We were now given lunch by the group, Chicken rice... of course, what else? :) to be honest we felt rather guilty taking from the group, everything was free, they wanted nothing for our seats on the coach, or the drinks and food. Our guilty feeling soon passed though as it was gone 1 o'clock and we were starving, a long time since the 2 small potato curry puffs at 08:15 that morning!

One final twist of the day came when, what appeared to be the official photographers and those recording the event, approached us and requested we did a "piece to camera", explaining who we were, why we were here and our thoughts on the day. OMG we couldn't refuse but how utterly embarrassing! 

Dragon fish

A long wait now ensued, out in the full heat of the sun on the open field in front of the temples. Each devotee held lit incense sticks. We were offered several times, but as we weren't devotees only enthusiastic watchers, it felt wrong to do so. I love the idea, and would love to learn more, but thats for another day.  Finally the floats arrived, decamped and processed around the large field to the temple. Stopping enroute some of the sedan chairs needed minor repairs. Each stopped again in front of the taosist temples.

At this point it was mid afternoon and following a phone call from my husband wondering where I was, was I alright? Ooops we were supposed to be home midday not teatime! :/ So sadly we said our good byes to the lovely organizers, trying to pass on how much we appreciated them letting us take part and come along and experience this. I can only stress what a wonderful experience this was, something we both said we will never forget. We would both like to visit Jin Dong Fu in Geylang and intend to visit very soon and pass on our appreciation.

 If you would like to see further images of where they went after we left, it can be found on their Facebook page as above. However those below are some of the other images from the celebrations we witnessed.

Spirit whips

Those using the spirit whips. The one in yellow seemed to be the head and took centre stage in many of the proceedings. He was also very informative.

Armenian Church

June 22, 2014, 9:23 pm

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The Apostolic Church of St Gregory the Illuminator

I took a wander along Hill Street last week. Normally this Street for me is used as a cut through from one place to another, en route to another place, with a mere thought of "I really must look further at the places around here". Its in the middle of the museum district here in Singapore, with the steps up to Fort Canning Hill close by and the Civil Defence Gallery, Hill Street Old Police Station and Central Fire Station, just around the corner is the Philatelic Museum, Peranakan museum and National Archives.

St Gregory's was the first Christian church to be built in Singapore in 1835 and it was designed by the Irish architect George Drumgoode Coleman, it is believed to be his most impressive design. The cost of the building was 5000 Spanish dollars and the majority was given by the small but prosperous Armenian community here in Singapore with some from Java and Calcutta and a smaller portion from the European and Chinese communities of Singapore. The church was consecrated on 26 March 1836 to St Gregory who was the first head of the Armenian Apostolic church. It became a National Monument on 26 July 1973.

The Armenian community in 1917

The church itself I feel is very attractive, quite small with portico's, a spire, louvred windows and many columns. Originally it was supposed to have a domed roof and bell tower but this was scrapped due to safety reasons. Inside it is in a circular shape with the wooden pews with rattan backs to help keep the parishioners cool. The ceiling is a vaulted and the church is supposedly modelled on the Armenian mother church of St Gregory's in Echmiadzin in Northern Armenia. The altar sits on a raised semi circular knave and behind it sits a painting of Jesus and his apostles at the Last Supper.

Outside in the grounds it has never been a burial ground, as the Armenians were interred at the Christian cemetery at Bukit Brown until the 1970s when they were exhumed. Their tombstones were relocated here around 1978 to create a Memorial Garden. This was organised by an American Armenian Leon Palian.

Many of the graves are damaged and I couldn't read quite a few as they are inscribed in Cyrillic text but it appeared the most were of the Sarkies family. The Sarkies were one of the most notable families in the small Armenian community (it was so small that in the census of 1824 just 16 were recorded) Probably the most famous of the Sarkies were the Sarkies brothers, Martin, Tigran, Aviet and Arshak who founded and ran Raffles Hotel, amongst other luxury hotels across SE Asia. More information on them can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarkies_Brothers   Other important gravestones located here are of Agnes Joaquim who bred Singapore's national flower the "Miss Joaquim" orchid and that of Catchik Moses who founded the Straits Times newspaper.

Daughter of Nanajan Sarkies who had the bungalow built in memory of her husband

In one corner of the grounds sits a 2 storey black and white bungalow that was built by Nanajan Sarkies in memory of her late husband John Shanazar Sarkies. It was built in 1905 as priests accommodation but today is used as the admin buildings.

Armenian Apostolic Church Of St Gregory The Illuminator

60 Hill Street

179366.

Umbrella Art

June 23, 2014, 10:56 pm

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Rain or Shine Arts Festival Exhibition

Works of Wonder (W.O.W.)

After reading about this yesterday via Channel News Asia I popped along this morning to see if it was open to the public. This exhibition is housed in the Marine Parade Community Building and thanks to a kindly auntie I found, that apart from a display outside of the building, the exhibition itself is housed on the 3rd storey, in both the Multipurpose Hall and the Baseball court Hall.

There are over 1000 umbrellas on display and have been decorated by schools and residents in the local community along with 2 artists, Elizabeth Ng (chair of the Marine Parade & Mountbatten Community Arts & Culture Club) and Faizal Amir (Founder and director of Creative Box)

This exhibition is the largest number of painted and decorated umbrellas and has made it to the Singapore Book of Records.

"Umbrellas are everyday objects that average Singaporeans take for granted.
We use them on a daily basis, be it rain, or shine.
Through this project, participants will have the chance to transform the umbrellas to functional art pieces they can be proud of. Residents, students from arts clubs of neighbouring schools and several community partners have made significant contributions to this umbrella project"

The exhibition and umbrellas was started in March 2014 and is part of the countrywide Passion Arts Festival.

If you want to catch this display its running from 24th - 30th June, so you had better get down there fast! Just take the lift to level 3, its that easy :)

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REVISIT: Kampong Buangkok - feeling sad.

June 25, 2014, 12:29 am

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The unstoppable march of the modern world

Today we took a friend and her son to visit "The last Kampong in Singapore". Since I last visited, less than 3 months ago, so many people have asked to me to take them there, but I have been reticent. If you have read my previous post you will know my strong feelings that this is most definitely NOT a tourist attraction, but a place of peace and tranquillity, people homes and havens. However with just 4 quiet people we decided to do so again. To be honest I am a little sorry I returned.

I was aware construction was due to take place close by but the shock at how close it truly was, hit me like one of those pile driving machines.

It was immediately obvious before we even turned into the kampong, just across from the entrance, behind where the children's homemade swings sat hanging from an ancient tree, and next to the remaining gates of the old leper hospital, that things had changed. The land was cleared and excavated, deep footings scarred the ground for a large road which seems to be heading straight for the swings and the kampong, hopefully it will divert onto the small lane that is currently there.

Before

Now

Now I don't know how the inhabitants feel or if any have moved, it could just be me but somehow the feeling of the village had changed, some of the homes looked empty, although to be honest when closed up its difficult to tell. The village seemed quieter than usual, no dogs barking although plenty of friendly cats and the chickens and parrots were still there. The feeling of calm was still there but, as we wandered around there was no longer any way you could ignore the outside world. Where once there was scrub land, full of trees, flowers and wildlife now we were greeted just feet from these homes, with the all to familiar dark green corrugated metal fencing that surrounds modern day Singapore, construction and more construction. Over the fencing as far as you could see the scrub land had been cleared, branches, trunks and vegetation laid piled up in mountains. We walked to the end of the lane and the large garden that was immaculately swept and tended last visit had disappeared, with just a thin step left next to the building. Where once the inhabitants looked out onto bananas, cocoa trees and listened to the bird song and insects, the peaceful quiet seemed slightly ominous, dead.

Before

Now

Before

Now

Before

Now

Before

Now

As we left the homes closer to the park connector had had some work done on them, mostly new corrugated roofs. But I leave wondering how long this place will really remain. OK they have not knocked the homes down to build on but they couldn't of got much closer. What a terrible shame, sometimes its better to remember how things were than to revisit and realise the new truth.

If you would like to read my post on my visit from April you can find it here. singaporetales.co.uk/2014/04/kampong-buangkok.html

NEWater Visitor centre

March 6, 2014, 10:05 pm

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NEW water from "old" 

Another interesting place I visited recently, if not one of the normal tourist attractions, was the NEWater visitor centre in the east not far from Changi. It is an educational centre and is the main focal point for the PUB (Public Utilities Board) education on NEWater.

Singapore at present has 4 of these NEWater plants with Changi being the newest and another due to built there in the near future.

NEWater is just as it says. New water cleaned and made drinkable from already used water, yes people even that "used" water!! Although Singapore has an extremely high rainfall (although its currently going through its driest spell since 1869) there is very little space or places able to collect enough for the ever expanding population. Currently they import  much from Malaysia and indeed have a contract to do so until 2060 when, Singapore intends to be fully self sufficient in supplying its own water, thanks in the main to NEWater. Now I'm no scientist and when people start explaining anything technical I tend to tune out and hear the test card playing (for those of you in the UK that remember that!!) How to explain very briefly - the used water is treated within 5 minutes of entering the plant through microfiltration, reverse osmosis and ultraviolet treatment. I am not going to try and explain this. If you're interested there is much info on the internet or pop along to the visitor centre as I did and it will be explained to you. For me its unbelievable that this water is cleaned and treated within just 5 minutes. Much of this NEWater is used for manufacturing, air conditioners but its completely safe to drink and indeed we were given bottles of drinking water. In fact it has gone through 30,000 scientific tests and passes the WHO (World Health Organisation) levels for safe drinking water. Much of the NEWater is in fact pumped back into the reservoirs to be mixed with the local catchment reserves.

Singapore first tried to turn used water into NEWater as far back as 1974 but with most new technology costs where prohibitive and its wasn't completely reliable. However come 1998 costs had dropped and other countries had implemented the process and in May 2000 the first NEWater plant was finished.

Singapore at presents collects it water from 4 places which they call their "4 Taps". The aim is by 2060 to be fully sufficient in water with excess.

Singapore's Taps

1. Rainwater from local catchments such as canals, storm drains, and reservoirs which is aimed to provide upto 90% of the water Singapore requires by 2060

2. Imports from Malaysia which will expire in 2061.

3. Newater which will be to provide up to 55% of the water supply

4. Desalinated water (sea water) the aim is by 2060 to provide 25% of Singapores water from desalination.

I'm very pleased to see that Singapore is actively promoting water conservation in a heavily populated country like this. I do wonder how many of the residents know about this place? The mascot for this campaign is a "water drop" man called Water Wally. You will see him throughout the plant and is also on the labels of the bottled water.

The NEWater centre provides free guided tours but these do need to be booked in advance..

It can be found at the end of Koh Sek Lim Rd just off of Upper Changi East Rd and just bus 2 stops from the MRT station at Tanah Merah.

Newater Visitor Centre
20 Koh Sek Lim Rd
Singapore
486593

Email: pub_newatervc@pub.gov.sg
tel no: 6546 7874
website: http://www.pub.gov.sg/water/newater   

MacRitchie Reservoir Loop and Tree Top Walk - WALK

July 7, 2014, 8:29 pm

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Woohoo! I've finally completed the loop around MacRitchie Reservoir, through the primary rainforest and over the Tree Top Walk :) In total it was just over 9 miles (14.6 km). We walked at a leisurely pace, stopping to take in the views and to snap plenty of photos (some included are from hubby)

An eagle on a far away tree, Possibly a white bellied?

MacRitchie reservoir was completed in 1868 after many years of failing to get constructed and is the oldest reservoir in Singapore, originally known as Thomson Reservoir after its designer John Turnbull Thomson. It was later expanded in 1891 and in 1922 renamed after the engineer in charge of the expansion James MacRitchie. The construction of the reservoir halted the destruction of the primary rainforest which had been decimated down to just 10% in 1886 following the British cultivation of Singapore for gambier, pepper and rubber. The land around MacRitchie reservoir and that of Peirce and Upper Seletar Reservoirs was designation as a water catchment area and was therefore protected.

It was a nice cool morning (28 degrees!!) following a significant thunder storm in the dawn hours. We set off anti clockwise around the reservoir from the Mushroom cafe along the MacRitchie Nature Trail passing the kayakers and from there entering into the jungle! This is Singapore and of course there and to be some rules!!

We tracked up through the rainforest and it was clear that this route is very popular with runners, I've since read that its used for cross country running by schools. For hubby it was his first experience of getting away from Singapore's manicured and kept green spaces and parks, a pleasant surprise for him. We continued upwards and onwards along a cinder path passing some giant "giant bamboo"!

Just before we joined with the trail near Venus Drive entrance we spotted a quick moving, very slim greenish snake. To quick to catch on my little camera or to be able to distinguish what sort it was.

A terrible photo of a fast moving small snake!

Onwards now along the Terentang Trail and here we spotted a number of spiders, one as large as my hand!! We met some very excited professional looking photographers here who had been searching for a couple of hours for this spider and were on their way home when they came across us and our spider.

A few metres away was a millipede easily 8 inches, 20+ cms in length  (I've only seen one of these once before and that was on our trip to Cambodia). From here we started up the short but sharp road to the Tree Top Walk and came quickly across a large troupe of long-tailed macaques. It appeared, to me, to be a nursery as they were predominantly young with just a few adults. If you want to see monkeys in the wild MacRitchie is probably the best place to spot them and you're pretty much guaranteed a sighting. I have since read before writing up this piece that there is a group of around 40 critically endangered (in SG) Banded Leaf Monkeys in this area but sadly we didn't spot any of these.

After the climb upwards we then went down!! several wooden steps and arrived at the Tree Top Walk. For someones who's always suffered from vertigo I've realised how Singapore has enabled me to conquer/control this. 16 months ago I wouldn't have even attempted this walkway, I would of been a quivering wreck. Sure I felt slightly apprehensive as we crossed the 25 metre high, 250 metre long suspension bridge, especially as it vibrated due to the people traffic (thankfully only a maximum of 30 people are allowed on at any one time) The suspension bridge joins together the 2 highest points within MacRitchie, Bukit Peirce and Bukit Kalang (Bukit meaning hill) and it was opened on 5 Nov 2004. Although slightly nervous there was some stunning views to be had so high up, across to Lower Peirce Reservoir and over the tree canopy. I was even able to look down below my feet through the metal grates of the bridge at the tops of the trees below. (Please note that you can only enter the bridge in one direction)

From the Tree Top Walk we seemed to go up and down.. and up and down... and up and down....along more wooden steps for what seemed a long time along the Petaling Trail until we finally reached Sime Track.

 However along this stretch we spotted more monkeys, several Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Bulbuls, squirrels, skinks and the most amazing little lizard, which scurried around so quickly, almost flying from post to post. We have since found out that it was an earless agamid with bright blue eyes. For me this was the find of the day. It almost seemed unreal, a CGI creation. Totally aware we were there, listening and watching us - amazing :)

The charming earless agamid

Common sun skink

Greater Racket-tailed drongo

I pointed out durian trees and jack fruit trees to hubby and our friend who had never seen them before.

Jack fruit

Passing the Jelutong Tower hubby couldn't resist climbing it  - I curbed my urge!

From here we walked across the low lying boardwalk with the reservoir on our left and the Golf Course of the Singapore Island Country Club on the right. Rather bizarre that one minute you're in the jungle, feeling isolated and miles away from humanity, then bang... there's a golf course! We spotted 2 eagles above the reservoir but they were to far aware to see what they were, but the white bellied sea eagle is a common sight here. More skinks were spotted (common sun skinks I think) and more macaques, some of which were ignoring the golf courses "do not enter" signs and were enjoying the manicured lawn of the course greens.

We were just a few miles away from the end now and the walk was predominantly along a boardwalk edging the reservoir. Here we saw damsel and dragonflies, an eel, a white throated kingfisher and what we think may have been a Striped tit Babbler and finally a water monitor lizard, a first for our friend. Not the giant six footer we had hoped to show her but she was pleased nonetheless.

White throated kingfisher

a medium sized monitor lizard

A Striped tit-warbler?

Finally after 9 miles we crossed over the zig zag bridge, built according to feng shui I believe to confuse the spirits. Rather cruel when one is tired to have to meander rather than cut straight across, when the end so near in sight.

A great walk and I'm so pleased that we finally did the whole route after just walking parts in the past. Don't worry there are several shorter walks that can be done. In fact I've 2 shorter walks lined up for next week. Chemperai/Lornie trail with the ladies meet up group (5 km) and Petail Trail (3 km)

Somewhere in there lies the remains of the Japanese shinto shrine - Syonan Jinja. An exploration for another day!

4 temples for the price of one! - Sengakang Ubin Thai Buddhist templeand 3 others

July 9, 2014, 2:09 am

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Jalan Kayu Joint Temple 

On our recent adventure with the devotees who were celebrating the Jian Mian Da Ren festivities. (See more info at http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2014/06/jian-mian-da-ren-festivities-jin-dong-fu.html) my friend and I found ourselves in Sengkang, an area both of us knew nothing about and visiting a temple, OK not just 1 temple but in fact 4 for the price of one! We had come to what is now called Jalan Kayu Joint Temple.

This strange occurrence came about when in 2006 three Taoist and one Buddhist temple leased together the land here from the HDB. This happened mainly as their leases on their original sites were up and the land earmarked for development - this is Singapore remember!

The temples in question are Ubin Thai Buddhist temple and the three Taoist are Chong Yee, Leong Nam and Bao Gong temples.

A really busy place with everyone extremely keen to show us each of their temples. A great show of how different religions can sit side by side. The rest of the world has much to learn.

Ubin Thai Buddhist temple had been at Pulau Ubin since a monk walked from Thailand to Pulau Ubin and a temple was established in 1986. It was located along Jalan Wat Siam by Kekek Quarry. It was named Shi Shan Fo Si Temple. The road it was once situated on has been nicknamed "cemetery road" There is a Chinese cemetery at the top of the sloping road, 2 cyclists have fallen from their bikes and died on this sloping road. The Temple had to find a new location after the granite quarry site was due to be reopened. In the end this didn't happen.

Chong Yee Temple (Ban Kok Sua Chong Yee) was founded in the 1950s and was situated in Seletar along Jalan Kayu Man Kok Sua, on Seleter farmway 6. The joss ash from the temple had come from Chan Shan temple in Paya Lebar who had in turn received it from Dongshan, Fuyan Province, China. It had been rebuilt in 1964 before it to had to relocated when the Government acquired the land and farmway for roadworks and redevelopment.

Main Deity 
Xie Tian Da Di 
Other Deities 
Guanyin  Tua Pek Kong (Da Bo Gong)  City God (Cheng Huang Gong)  Di Zang Wang 
Tua Li Ya Pek (Da Er Ye Bo) Xiao Zi Gong (Filial Son) Justice Bao (Bao Fu Da Ren) 
Xuan Tian Shang Di, Monkey King (Qi Tian Dasheng)  Five battalion Commanders (Wu Ying Shen Jiang) Tiger God  

Leong Nam Temple was founded in 1964 at Jalan Pasar Baru, in Geylang Serai, then a small Malay village. Their lease on the land ended in 2006 when the Government wanted to develop the land for residential use.

Main Deity 
2nd Emperor of the Nine Emperor Gods (jiu huang da er di) 
Other Deities 
Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy/Compassion) Sixty Tai Sui, Madam Di Mu (Di Mu Niang Niang)  
Xuan Tian Shang Di , Tiger God,   Tua Li Ya Pek (Da Er Ye Bo)  The Third Prince (Nezha)  Monkey King  

Bao Gong Temple needed to find a new location after its Tao Payoh Loring 7 lease ended. The temple came into being when Bao Gong (Justice Bao) came from China to Pasir Panjang in the 60s before relocating in the 70s to Kim San Leng, then again in the 80s to Tao Payoh before its latest move. The basement of this temple houses the ten courts of hell. The 5th court, that of Yanluowang is believed to be Justice Bao (Bao Gong)

We were shown around here by an "uncle" that had been here over 20 years and was in charge of the English translations. A charming, enthusiastic and informative gentleman.

Main Deity 
Justice Bao 
Other Deities 
Ten Yama Kings ,Tua Li Ya Pek ,Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy) ,Dou Mu ,Sixty Tai Sui ,Tiger God ,Commander of Black Command (Hei Ling Jiang Jun) ,Xuan Tian Shangdi ,Five Battalion Commanders (Wu Ying Shen Jiang) ,Madam White Dress (Bai Yi Niang Niang) ,Five Ghost Generals ,Zhong Kui ,Meng Po 

Some more images from the site.

Exquisite Shophouses and World War 1 heroes. Jalan Besar

July 14, 2014, 1:30 am

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Along Petain road and the junction with Sturdee Rd, in Jelan Besar district, sits a row of exquisite shophouses beautifully renovated and maintained. They were once in such a sad state of repair that they were due to be demolished in 1979. Many of the tiles were damaged or lost and were replaced by similar pieces sourced from Vietnam.

Jelan Basar is now a conservation area and the name means big/wide road in malay. It was, like many parts of Singapore, a swampland until it was drained in 1916. The Petain Road area used to be known as Keen Chio Kar (foot of the banana tree) in Hokkien giving an insight into the areas old heritage. The swampland which was once home to Chinese farms and vegetable gardens until it was drained became residential. Before the 2nd World War this area was a well known red light district and some areas still live up to the past! 

Many of the roads and spaces in Jelan Besar are named after battles of 1st World War - Verdun, Flanders and Somme for example. Many are also named after British admirals and generals and 2 French generals. As mentioned these shophouses sit along Petain Rd and the corner of Sturdee Rd. Sturdee Rd is named after the British admiral Sir Frederick Charles Doveton Sturdee (1859-1925) Petain Rd was named in 1928 after the French 1st World War hero Marshal Henri Philippe Petain (1856-1951) - hero of the battle of Verdun, later to be more widely known as the Prime Minister of France who collaborated with Hitler and the Germans during the French Occupation. Because of the 2nd World War history many over the years have called for Petain Rd to be renamed, possibly to De Gaulle.

In 1930 this row of 18 terraced shophouses were commissioned by Mohamed Bin Haji Omar and built by E.V.Miller. These Peranakan styled shophouses are decorated with a mixture of many types of shophouse architecture in the Chinese baroque/Singapore eclectic style. The paler coloured homes were probably home to Peranakan and Malay families wheres as the brighter Chinese. Towards the centre of the row was once a Hockchew temple called Tian Shu Tang. 

Ramadan Trail at Masjid Sultan

July 15, 2014, 1:46 am

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Last week saw a friend of mine sign us up for the Ramadan Trail hosted by and held at the Masjid Mosque (Sultans Mosque) in Kampong Gelam. We were privileged to be shown around this most famous of Singaporean mosques and have Ramadan explained to us simply along with the prayers. This Trail has happened for a few years now,during the month of Ramadan celebrated by Muslims across the world. The trail takes place during Ramadan from 2 -23 July 2014 on every Mon, Wed and Thursday and is free taking in total about 1 - 1 1/2 hours. Please register just inside the main gates at 17:30 for the tour to start at 18:00.

We were a mixed group of nationalities many locals but also South Americans, Scandinavians and British. We were taken inside the grounds and had explained to us how Muslims clean themselves before entering. One kind gentlemen showed us how he washed his head, face, ears, nose, mouth, arms, hands and feet, each 3 times before entering.

Once inside men will use the prayer room on the ground floor of the mosque whilst the ladies are separate and use the upstairs. The reason we were told for this separation was that you don't want to be distracted by the opposite sex whilst thinking and praying. At the entrance to the prayer hall above the door is a digitalised display showing the times in which they should pray on that day, between which hours also the time of dawn and that of dusk that day which coincides with the 4th prayers of the day. Muslims are encouraged to pray at least 5 times a day.

During the month of Ramadan Muslims fast from dawn to dusk so depending on where you are on the planet the daylight hours can vary quite considerably between 12-17 hours. Singapore is quite fortunate that they aren't too long. Greenland and northern Scandinavian are the longest hours.

From here we were taken upstairs onto the roof of the mosque, something they haven't done in the past so we felt very lucky to experience this, Some great views and photo opportunities lent themselves from here as dusk was beginning to descend. One interesting fact which was pointed out is if you look carefully at the base of the main gold dome you will notice that the banding is made up of old used bottles. A great form of recycling!

Down from the roof we were taken into a small auditorium where we were introduced to a brief explanation on Muslims, Allah, and Ramadan. Informative and interesting. We had explained to us that the dates of the month depends on the new moon and that throughout this month times is spent with the family, homes are cleaned and new items bought, much is given to charity and many good deeds performed. It doesn't matter if you have no money as just to give someone a smile is a gift. All good deeds throughout this month are believed to be magnified. At the end of the month it culminates in the end celebration of Hari RayaPuasa/ Eid-al-Fitr. The reason Muslims fast during this time is to attain "God consciousness" known as Taqwa - closer to God. All are expected to fast apart from children, the unwell (physically and mentally) menstruating women, pregnant and breast feeding women.

Masjid Sultan - Sultans Mosque is probably the most important mosque in Singapore. When Sir Stamford Raffles planned Singapore he designated the area of Kampong Gelam to Malays and Muslims. Sultan Hussein built his palace (istana) in the area and therefore decided to build the mosque next to it. It was built between 1824-26 with money from the East India Company and until 1879 was managed by one of the Sultans grandsons when it was then passed to 5 community leaders. In 1914 it was given a 999 year lease and 1924, with the community vastly growing and the mosque in a poor state of repair it was decided it should be rebuilt and this was completed by 1928. In 1975 it became a national monument.

Now as sunset arrived we were invited by our guides to Buka Puasa (break fast) with them. We first started with a date which settles the stomach after a day of fasting followed by water as you would be dehydrated. We then sat on the floor and ate traditionally with just our fingers on our right hand a meal of fried rice, curried chicken and vegetables followed by some sweet cakes. Although it was unusual for us to use just our hand I don't think I made too much of a mess! The most difficult thing for me personally was sitting on the floor to eat. My legs took a while to work again and my back to straighten out! Saying that I really appreciated being asking to join them and to be allowed to experience this. We couldn't of ask for more friendlier and informative guides - thank you 😊

Masjid Sultan
3 Muscat St
Singapore 19883359
info@sultan.mosque.org.sg

Return from reality? Or return to reality? Home visit

July 30, 2014, 6:20 pm

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Day 2 and I'm already over the jetlag, although to be honest I didn't really succumb this year, apart from the ritual 2am wide awake for an hour experience. We've just returned from our yearly trip back to the UK and this year it was truly a whirlwind visit, fitting in 4 places in just 9 days. Last year we spent just over 2 weeks and it felt too long, as much as we loved the family we were itching to get "back home" to Singapore and our "new life" Maybe this was because it was still so new, candy coated, Xmas present anticipation, reinvention of who we were, a new chance at being young and free. This year the emotions were completely different.

The UK couldn't have put on a better display, perfect English summer, no humidity, no sweat constantly dribbling down your back with a dewy sheen across ones forehead! England was the bucolic lush, green and pleasant land. The country villages were idyllic with cricket  and cream teas on the village greens, you could almost see Agatha Christie, Jane Austen and Enid Blyton penning their next novel in that old wicker chair.

UK was teasing us, showing us all that was good but were we seeing it for the first time through rose coloured glasses? Look carefully past the gorgeous countryside and atmospheric architecture that I have always loved and been proud of about the UK anyway and has really that much changed? No not really... conclusion.... it's me that's changed. 

As I walked the paths I walked daily with the dog, visited the same shops, passed the same faces nothing was so much different but I'm not the same person as the one who walked those steps just a short 16 months ago. This time I was a visitor, a mere ghost, a changeling, one foot in the past, I did and then I didn't belong. I was me and yet it wasn't me, how when our time is up do I go back? I can't go back to how it/I was because, that person no longer exists, that life is no longer the same. Everything and everyone on both sides of the world has moved on, moved forward. The world is continually whirling. 

I miss my family, I miss the perfect England I glimpsed this visit, it was more difficult to leave this year but I was only a visitor in my "old home" but I missed also my new life, my new friends, the new adventures, reinventions and freedom. I'm torn in many ways, this visit showed that life will never quite be as simple again and which path should we take going forward?

---

The Temples of Loyang

August 5, 2014, 1:22 am

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Tua Pek Kong and Yan Kit

Within 15 minutes walk of each other sit 2 temples in the Loyang area, between Changi Prison and Pasir Ris.

Yan Kit Village Temple

This first temple was Yan Kit Village Temple at 130 Mariam Way 507078. Sadly there is no longer a Yan Kit village and the temple has moved across the road from where it was originally founded in 1939. The Yan Kit village was a Hainanese village and these people originally came from Southern China. The Hainanese people were mainly fishermen and a vast exodus moved to Singapore at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. This is probably why the temple is also known as Shu Wei Sheng Niang miao, Shu Wei Sheng Niang known as the Goddess of the Waterfront (The temple would once have been within sight of the ocean before Singapore's land reclamation occurred) She is the Guardian Goddess of this temple. Slightly confusingly we were told by the kindly caretaker that the deity here was Matsu - Goddess of the Sea. I'm unsure whether these two goddesses are one and the same?

There seems little or no information about this temple on the Internet apart from a couple of You Tube clips - one that I have attached below. Does anyone have any further information?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwBGsim4Bng

We visited at the beginning of the Chinese 7th month festival (Hungry Ghosts festival) see last years post here http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2013/08/hungry-ghost-festival.html and were able to see the additional offerings, gifts, food, and games that have been left for the "ghosts" the ancestors who come down to earth when the gates of hell are opened. During this month hell money will be burnt along with joss paper offerings

Not sure whether these popup loos and shoes were for the expected extra devotees to 7th month festivities or for the "ghosts"????

games to keep the "ghosts" entertained

Loyang Tua Pek Kong Temple

Taoist temple section

Next to visit just a short 15 minute walk away was Tua Pek Kong Temple at 20 Loyang Way. What makes this temple so special is that it contains Buddhist, Hindu and Taoist deities and a Muslim kramat (shrine) Its so good to see different faiths being worshipped together on one site, the rest of the world should take note!

The temple came about when in the 1980s some fishermen found the Buddhist, Taoist and Hindu statues along the shore in the Loyang industrial area and a small temple was erected on the shore. These fishermen also erected the Muslim kramat to honour a Muslim man, I believe this was Datuk Kung, a Malay saint but I may be misinformed. This small seashore shrine soon (try saying that quickly!!!) became extremely popular as devotees said their prayers were always granted for prosperity and wealth. In 1996 the shrine burnt down and the only statue that survived was that of Tua Pek Kong (Grand Uncle) The Taoist deity, the God of Prosperity. Tua Pek Kong is also considered the guardian of Pulau Ubin. http://www.singaporetales.co.uk/2014/05/pulau-ubin-tua-pek-kong-chinese-opera.html

photo on the wall of the old original sea shore shrine - how things have changed!

Thanks to huge public donations a new temple was constructed and named after Tua Pek Kong and it has continued to run to this day on public donations. In fact it is such a popular temple that over 20,000 people visit in any one month, with it opening 24 hours a day. The temple will accept any deity and anyone can adopt and take away one for free after a prayer is given (and no doubt an offering) When the lease on this site was up in 2007 it relocated to its current location at Loyang Way and through public donations amazingly $12 million was raised for its construction.

As mentioned there are 4 religions worshipped here and when people of any of these religions come to visit they walk around the site in a set order as each part is numbered. Each numbered site will also say how many joss sticks should be placed there.

Extremely ornate and brightly coloured chimney for burning the offerings, don't think I've seen one so highly decorated

Toaist

At the front of the building sits the Taoist temple housing Tua Pek Kong. On the ceiling is a huge wooden circular carving with some form of abacus around the edge. This is also mirrored on the floor to one side where there is a wheel split into the signs of the Chinese year, with an abacus and a slot in each animals section for money to be placed. Sadly I can't seem to find much information out about this, although I am assuming lucky numbers are probably set out on the abacus and then money offerings are made to "help" the luck along? If anyone can shed any information on these wheels I would be most greatful.

I was born in the Year of the Horse, should I make a wish?

Buddhist

Directly behind the Taoist temple sits an equally grand Buddhist one, with all the bright colours and gods associated with this religion. There are many small Buddhas on one wall as often found in buddhist temples. A different but netherless equally stunning wooden carved ceiling sets off this temple.

Highly intricately carved ceiling

Hindu

To the right of the Taoist temple sits the Hindu one decorated in the colours and architecture of southern Indian architecture.

Here it is Ganesha who is worshipped 

From Wikipedia!

Although he is known by many attributes, Ganesha's elephant head makes him easy to identify.^[6] Ganesha is widely revered as the remover of obstacles,^[7] the patron of arts and sciences and the deva of intellect and wisdom.^[8] As the god of beginnings, he is honoured at the start of rituals and ceremonies. Ganesha is also invoked as patron of letters and learning during writing sessions.^[9][10] Several texts relate mythological anecdotes associated with his birth and exploits and explain his distinct iconography.

This 2 metre tall statue of Ganesha is believed to be the tallest in either Singapore or India. Behind him sit 3 more shrines to Lord Subramanya, Goddess Durga and Goddess Mahalazmi (Goddess of Wealth) 

Ganesha

Shrines to Lord Subramanya, Goddess Durga and Goddess Mahalaxmi

Muslim

Sitting silently and simply between the Taoist Temple and the 3 small Hindu shrines is the Muslim Kramat. Kramats are graves usually of spiritual leaders and holy men. 

Have you noticed a theme running through this yet? Prosperity and wealth.... so often mentioned in Chinese tradition and religion it seems that this multi temple is no exception. All the statues around the temple and inside the Taoist Tua Pek Kong temple are covered in numbers, why numbers? Tua Pek Kong is the God of Wealth and Prosperity and as such this temple is believed to be good luck. Come Chinese New Year thousands flock here to purchase the lucky red bags (ang boas) which hold 4 digit numbers. The devotees will write their numbers on the temple hoping to get good fortune from Tua Pek Kong or they will write their lottery numbers down and pray for good luck.... perhaps I should give this a try!!! This year being the Year of the Horse a large horse sits in front on the temple, not a cm is free from people having scribbled their numbers down, as with a large gold Chinese money. One thing is not covered however and that is the "lucky stone" here devotees will buy incense and place it in front of the stone where you should see your lucky numbers appearing on the stones surface, no writing allowed on this!

Lucky stone

There are supposedly 2 other multi faith temples in Singapore that worship both Chinese and Hindu deities, Jiutiaoqiao Xinba Nadutan (95 Tampines Link) and Hup Choon Kek Hock Huat Keng (523 Yishun Ind Park A)  I will need to investigate........

Extremely large God of Prsoperity!

Did you know there was this Tibetan Temple in Singapore?

August 7, 2014, 2:15 am

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Thekchen Choling

Well that was a pleasant surprise! After a delightful morning with friends at a local coffee shop, in the Jalan Besar area, we wandered about 200 metres up the road and found this Tibetan Buddhist temple, prayer flags flying and surrounding this building on the corner of Beatty lane and Tyrwhitt Road. OK the Singapore heat and humidity along with the chaotic busy road didn't exactly transport me to the peaceful, snow topped mountains of Tibet but it was still a delight to find and so close to home, who knew?

Thekchen Choling means "Great Mahayana Dharma Temple" and is named after the 14th Dalai Lamas monastery in Dharamsala, India. This temple was founded in 2001 by Namdrol Rinpoche. He was born as Felix Lee a Singaporean Chinese who from the age of 7 studied to become a Buddhist monk. At the age of 15 he began to have vivid dreams telling him he should teach Buddhism. He travelled to Nepal looking for answers where he was greeted by "welcome we were expecting you!" During this time he learnt that the master in his dreams was the Tibetan Buddhist saint Guru Rinpoche. After years of training he became a yogi, which is a lay Lama.

As mentioned he returned to Singapore and started the Thekchen Choling Buddhist Organisation and opened the temple in 2001 along with his disciples.

The Temple is open 24 hours a day 7 days a week and anyone is welcome (please remove shoes) Amongst teaching Buddhism in both Mandarin and English, they give food to the needy, donate to charities and give free TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine, including acupuncture - may take a look at this for my gammy knee!

As we arrived, a mixed group of expat and local women, we were enthusiastically welcomed by a member of the temple who was keen to explain all about what we could see and a brief summary regarding Buddhism. If only I had come prepared with my camera, not just iPhone (apologizes for qualities of the shots) and something to take notes with, I will really need to return to learn and re listen. The basic gist of what he was explaining was that it didn't matter who you were, where you were from and from what religion, everything came down to love - a wonderful sentiment and yet a simple one, although so you would think, but you only need to think of that one person who winds you up to realise its not simple at all. He explained that everything was bright and colourful to give thanks. Oh if only I could remember more that he said!

Of all the religions (and I'm not religious) I find Buddhism fascinating and am drawn towards it, but apart from the story of the first Buddha I tend to get to confused and lost somewhat. Having said that at the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, Chinatown the museum upstairs does an excellent job of explaining :)

The centre piece of this temple is the Shakyamuni Buddha 'Body of Bliss' believed to to have protected devotees from the SARS epidemic

1000 armed Tibetan Chenrezig the largest in Singapore at 2.3 metres and made from gilt gold and copper. It symbolizes Buddhas boundless compassion.

Giant Mani Wheel. It stands 3 metres high and 1.38 in diameter. It contains cloths, gems and 218,844,788 printed mantras! Whoever turns this clockwise is thought to have recited all the mantras - phew :)

A DAY OUT! Yishun, Bottle Tree Park, a reservoir, hot Spa treatment andso much more!

August 10, 2014, 12:30 am

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I took a day off from temple spotting as my friend and I decided to explore a small area in the north of the island. We met at Khatib MRT (I can't find any definite confirmation why the MRT is named khatib. A khatib in islam is the person who delivers the sermon for Friday prayers but, I also know that there was a nearby waterway called Sungei Khatib Bongsu which I think is probably the reason - can anyone confirm this?) then took a brief wander through Yishun park 8 and entered Bottle Tree Park by its rear entrance. Bottle Tree Park is described as a kampong style recreation park that was built up over the past 10 years, home to restaurants, paintball, fishing lake, go karts, mini zoo and much more. However it will have closed by the 17 Aug, if you could tell the difference! It has been bought by Chinese firm Fullshare Group who intend to develop it into a recreation centre, but believed under a new name, many of the former incumbents have already moved on. To be honest the place looks like it has been left with nothing done to it for a few years, as my friend L said usually it's sad in Singapore when something old is taken over and revamped/knocked down but in this case there is most definitely a need and hopefully an improvement. It's a lovely tranquil relatively rural setting that needs some love, although I'm aware that local opinion probably differs to mine but I'm seeing it in its last few days.

The old go kart track

From here we wandered along the frontage of Lower Seleter Reservoir a short stroll, nothing too taxing. This is a pleasant place to sit, but I think the real plus side is the view, with the 2 jetties at either end of the waterside framing the reservoir perfectly. You can certainly see why photographers come here to take their shots. The only downside is that you can only walk such a short distance, its a vast expanse of water (for Singapore) but so little is accessible, it would seem Singapore is a missing an opportunity here!

From the far jetty we had spotted some large wall art on the front of an HDB block. My friend L has a project on the go at the moment to spot, photograph and record as much of the HDB art as possible, and to be honest I'm getting slightly hooked too. I'm sure there are other countries that have this as well but its fascinating and certainly brightens up the buildings. So we crossed out of Lower Seleter Reservoir park, across the road for a better look and then came across a Chinese funeral "celebration" at the bottom of this HDB in the void deck. It was clearly someone of importance as it was larger than many I had seen, with many floral tributes. These celebrations last for 5 days and the people there explained that it was only getting started and would be extremely busy by day 4 and 5. They were busy making ready all the preparations, wrapping what seemed like endless red packets filled with money. The coffin was there and at the end of it stood a chair with the gentleman's clothes laid out for him - ready for the afterlife? There was also a very large joss paper bungalow already on site which will be burnt later, this will be his home when he moves on. The people couldn't have been more polite and welcoming but we didn't want to intrude on such a personal occasion so we moved on walking back toward Khatib MRT. We spotted even more of the HDB art, it appears it is a popular occurrence here in Yishun.

Joss paper bungalow with the accountant that will travel with him into the next life standing in the doorway.

We hopped onto the MRT and alighted at next stop Yishun. (Yishun is mandarin for Lim Nee Soon known as the "rubber and Pineapple king" who owned much of the land here which was used for agriculture) Last week just a few hours after I had landed from my trip back to the UK the ladies group I'm in had visited Semabawang Hot Springs and I had missed this. As we were so close L decided to show what I had missed! Now I've known about this place for many months so I'm really chuffed to have finally visited. We walked for probably a good 15 minutes then turned down an unassuming path just off Gambas Ave, surrounded by military land, barbed wire, fencing and the usual military signage - I certainly wouldn't have wandered down this path without knowing what was down there. Round a bend and there the path opens up into a large concreted area surrounded by green chain link fencing, with a small brick pump building in the centre home to the hot spring that was discovered by Seah Eng Keong in 1909. In the past a malay village had grown up around the springs which was called Kampong Ayer Panas "Village of Hot Water"

Not exactly a welcoming entrance

 Not what most people would expect Hot Springs to looks like. Out of this expanse of concrete jut 3 metals pipes with 2 taps at either of end, from these boiling water continuously gushes with steam rising. The overriding smell is that of sulphur as you would expect with hot springs. This water continues to pour 24 hours a day with a caretaker putting a collection of plastic buckets, containers and even a baby bath out to catch the water. These containers are soon overflowing and the water eventually runs away into drains in the concrete, wasted water, wasted energy and another wasted opportunity - surely something could be made of this site, whether as a more promoted hot springs or/and some use of the hot water as a green energy? In the past the water had been bottled by Fraser and Neave after they bought the land in 1922 but this ended when the military purchased the land in 1998. There have also been various tests and suggestions for the use of the water and energy but to date nothing has come out of this. The water is reported to have healing properties.

When my friends had been the previous week there were a number of "aunties" there with feet placed in the buckets and flannels and cloths dipped into the water then wiped over them, or placed on their aching joints. This time there was just one lone "uncle" who soon left and we had the place to ourselves! NB: the water is said to take an hour to cool down so please DONT put your feet straight in the water!! We found a couple of buckets that were full and had been pulled to one side. I can't say how long ago they had been removed from the tap but, it took me several attempts and a good few minutes until I could get my feet into the water and to keep them there, one stung quite considerably but this was due to a large blister I had rubbed on yesterday 8 mile walk. L followed suit with her own bucket and we both sat there like a couple of good Singaporean "aunties" passing the time of day for maybe 3/4 hour, so tranquil if not picturesque, I could quite see myself if I was a local passing the morning there with my friends. Soon the caretaker of the site arrived in his over sized and extremely bright yellow welly boots. As with my friends visit he carried with him a bamboo wooden cage, which he hung up in the trees surrounding the site. This turned out was a bird trap, to catch the wild birds. A big thing in Asia is the keeping of birds which, although I've become accustomed to seeing I still find it slightly alien to me.

Take my word for it, its hot, very hot!!

Cant beat a bit of pampering!!!

Finally after a relaxing time spent with our feet in buckets and with rain clouds building we bade farewell to Sembawang Hot Springs and made our way back to Yishun MRT. NB. I can highly recommend the waters my nasty weeping blister dried and healed in super quick time :)

We passed by Chong Pang City which has some impressive Chinese city gates (built in 1992) as you enter into the area. Chong Pang was originally a village named after a Chinese business man Chong Pang who built the village in the 1930s to house the Indian workers for the Sembawang navy base. It later became "city" in the 1980s when it was redeveloped and was the first development in Yishun New Town. Prior to all this the area was once home to many Chinese Cemeteries and agricultural use.

Statue depicting the agricultural history of the area

One of the Chinese City Gates

From here we jumped aboard the train, feeling relaxed, chilled and a tad sleepy and found our way back home. Lovely to explore a new area of Singapore and one that we will be back to, more history, more HDB art and so close to Sembawang Park and the North coast of the island with Malaysia sitting across the water

More information on Sembawang Hot Springs can be found here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sembawang_Hot_Spring

Istana Woodneuk

August 17, 2014, 11:52 pm

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Where do I start with this post? Do I describe it as an attraction? a ghost story? trespassing even!!! A historical piece? A day trip? All of these and more could describe this visit last week and I still can't believe this quiet timid English woman had the courage, with friends, to go hunting for this place, although probably my SG friends wouldn't recognise that description of me!!

Right let's start from the beginning.... When I started reading about places to visit in Singapore and getting lost in other fellow bloggers posts, I soon got past the "tourist" must visit places and decided I wanted to experience more of the real Singapore. Istana Woodneuk soon kept popping up on my readings, this once Royal "palace" now left to the ravages of time and as yet left alone, in its own substantial grounds, from Singapore's manic urges to redevelop, rebuild, reinvent. Talking to various friends we all said 'wouldn't it be great'if we could find a way in, get to see this place and decide for ourselves if it really was as good as the photos seen on the Internet. The biggest problem appeared to be gaining access. Although we knew people had found ways in officially this is private land (not sure what hubby thought I was up to - oops) There was very little information on how to do so, but after more digging we narrowed it down to a small hidden "path" and last week myself and 3 friends went to see if we could indeed find Woodneuk, and guess what... We did!

Now trying to research the facts around Woodneuk has proved quite tricky and confusing as there were once 2 "palaces" both belonging to the Sultans of Johor and, it appears when reading various information which state they will  "clear up the mixed messages about the two" in fact just seem to contradict themselves, so please bare with me if some of the information below is incorrect!

Tyersall House/Istana

Woodneuk is often confused with Tyersall House/Istana which once stood slightly further north and was owned by Sultan Abu Bakar (1833-95) the 21st Sultan of Johor and known as the "father of modern Johor" This we know as gospel and we know also that Tyersall was built first and was a much larger red roofed building, 210 ft by 174 ft in size and built by Wong Ah Fook and was one of the first homes in Singapore to have electricity. It was built for William Napier (1804-79) and then known as Tyersall House, Napier was the first lawyer of Singapore and founded the Singapore Free Press and was Sultan Abu Bakars legal advisor and yes Napier Road was named after him.

1857 - Napier sold Tyersall House to Sultan Abu Bakar.
1860 -  demolished? 1890  fire demolished??
1892 - was rebuilt and renamed Istana Tyersall and there was a grand opening party held on 10 Dec 1892.
1895 - Sultan Abu Bakar died leaving the house to his son who succeeded him who was Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar, who preferred Istana Woodneuk (this would assume Woodneuk was already in existence.
1905 - fire 10 Sept at 14:45
1907 - abandoned
1932 - another fire
1947 - house no longer in existence?
1990 - Singapore Government compulsory purchased Tyersall and demolished it in Nov 1990

As you can see just with this house a lot of conflicting information and a lot of fires!

Woodneuk House/Istana 

Still a large house slightly further south to Tyersall sitting on another small hill. Different to Tyersall, Woodneuk had a striking blue tiled roof, remains that can still be seen scattered around today.
Built - 1890 by Sultan Abu Bakar for his 3rd (4th) wife (info can't decide on this either) Sultana Khadijah, who died in Woodneuk in 1904, just before her death it was sold to Abu Bakars son and successor Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar
1930s - rebuilt with servants quarters attached and what is believed a guardhouse further down towards the entrance.
1935 - New Woodneuk was completed for Sultan Ibrahim to celebrate his 62nd birthday and 40 year reign as Sultan. It was built for him and his Scottish born wife Helen Bartholomew who he married in 1930. She became Sultana Helen Ibrahim in 1931.
1940 - part of it was used as a Indian Head Quarters and a military hospital was built in the grounds.
1942 - after bombing from the Japanese it is reported that 700 medics and patients died on 12 Sept 1942.
It was also used by various nationalities for head quarters by Generals, commander in chiefs and even Governor General Malcolm MacDonald occupied Woodneuk at one time.
1948 - Woodneuk was returned to the Sultan
1959 - Sultan Iskandar died
Very little information seems to be around from this time onwards, although reading comments on one bloggers site one person 'GK' said that he lived downstairs between 1973-75, having converted the rooms to bedrooms and upstairs lived a friend of the Sultans and indeed another comment said they had met and played with this family then. What a fantastic place to grow up in :)
2004 - Botanical Gardens purchased some of the land with plans to extend the Gardens and when we went in fact the "green fencing" of change is now in residence on part of the land adjacent to the Botanical Gardens.
2006 or 7? a fire completed gutted the house with the once iconic blue tiled roof collapsing into the building and it has been uninhabitable since.

The building and land is still believed to the property of the Sultan of Johor.

As you can see some conflicting information surrounds the history of these two houses but nothing take away from the architectural beauty of the ruins and peaceful situation surrounded by all the vegetation.

So thats the history now heres our story.....

This is what we walked through

As we entered into the undergrowth on a feint path, we climbed and slipped over fallen branches, hanging onto some for grip as we went up a couple of slopes. We then came out into a more open expanse of land covered in knee high grass. This is the first time we have ever used sticks to announce our arrival to any possible snakes, that may have been having a snooze under foot! The walk in all honesty was probably only about 15 minutes in total and the feint path was visible and much easier to spot than expected, We clambered over a ditch and reached the remains of the old road and followed it up and as we rounded the corner Woodneuk revealed itself to us covered in creepers and shrubs - what a beauty, living up to the photos we had seen.

Clambering up one of the slopes on our way in

Theres a path there honest! Didn't spot any snakes lurking in the grass thankfully :)

Our first glimpse of Woodneuk

Below are more photos of the outside and inside. I'm not sure how long we explored but it must have been at least an hour. There still remains the old panelled walls in one of the drawing rooms and wood block flooring covers the floors downstairs and up. The fact that this is rotting gives a strange spongy feeling as you walk across it. The building is a maze of rooms and hints at its once grandeur. The main split staircase, still the most stunning entrance to the house as you would have entered into the downstairs, has a sign warning that it is structurally unsafe but, we found a back stone one and ascended to the first floor which is now open to the sky where the roof has collapsed. There has clearly been some work over the years to clear away much of the fire damaged debris. The front rooms have a wrought iron balustrade edging then, which face over what must once had been a majestic garden but now just a romantic tumble of jungle. Back downstairs and we investigated the large servant areas, kitchen, washrooms and many out houses with remains of fridges, tools and benches, even the remains of an old car!

The staffs quarters and utility areas, being just a single storey they are almost totally submerged by the undergrowth

Mosaic shards of the blue roof tiles are scattered around the buildings grounds

Wood block flooring once covered the floors

The magnificent staircase to the upper floor now no longer structurally safe, with evidence of where the roof has collapsed into the building. I'm not sure if the material covering where the roof was is actually protecting the staircase much.

Some of the upper rooms

old cistern and water heater

More remains of the roof tiles, larger this time

Where the roof has caved in, onto the staffs staircase, following the fire.

Pantry I suspect?

fuse box, no wonder there were fires :)

An old range cooker sitting where once would of been a much older range or even open fire in one of the kitchens

House or tree? reminiscent of the temples in Cambodia. Just shows how nature will always take back and win.

Remains of the paneled walls in one of the downstairs living rooms. How grand it must have looked.

From here we tried to continue up the road to see if we could find where Tyersall House once stood as surely there would still be footings, but sadly the road came to an end and the undergrowth was just to thick to investigate further without more of a clue to where we were heading. So we retraced our footsteps and followed the drive down towards the main road, passed the workman's trappings, there was no one around (something I have to admit to being rather glad about) and when we came to the road we found the green gates padlocked. So back up the hill and we exited again through the undergrowth, picking our sticks up again and this time using them to slide down the slopes as well as forewarning any hissing serpents!

leaving Woodneuk via the old road

A small building not far from the main house down the drive, was it an old guard house or gatekeepers lodge?

Through the worker site only to find the exit locked so we walked back up and out the way we came in!

We appeared onto the road as if nothing had happened, that we were just passing the time of day, not that we had had just travelled back in time to an era of forgotten grandeur. That we had spent the last few hours with the ghosts of the past excluded from the modern world, just the 4 of us on our own little time travel :)

Thanks to L, N and S for allowing me to add photos of them and sharing this magic with me :)

Anyone missing any chairs??

Fong Hin & G H Watt Co. Singapore. Hunted for some information on them and I know they were in existence in 1929. I found an advert that said.... Modern sanitation & sanitary equipment for domestic & public buildings Fong Hin & G H Watt 64 Wallich St Singapore phone 1582. Wallich St is by Tanjong Pagar MRT station - do they still trade?

A shed snake skin, but we didn't see any live ones!

60s-70s turquoise bath tiles - I lived in a few houses with this colour bathroom suits!

Singapore Flower Festival 2014 - PHOTO POST

August 18, 2014, 1:16 am

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I've just come back from a lovely morning visiting the flowers and displays at this years Flower Festival held at the Gardens by the Bay.

The festival runs for just a week from 16th -24th August so hurry and get down there while you can! It's open from 10am to 10pm daily and we paid for a weekday local resident (don't forget proof) just $10 which included entry into the flower dome, where the orchid display is and then entry into the festival itself. There are other rates and computations. More information can be found on the official website
https://www.singaporegardenfestival.com

Below are just some of the fantastic exhibits both indoors and out. If you like flowers come along and take a look :)